SPLIT on the island of Ciovo

We flew into Split from Vienna and spent a couple of days here :: another great European town with lots of history and charm. Being 17 centuries old and dating back to the time of Roman Emperor Diocletian who built his palace here, over the years his Palace grew to become a city.

Split has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 due not only to the Palace but all of the old Roman structures dating back to the Middle Ages that have been wonderfully preserved. Many residents built their own palaces in and around the main one in town. This is an example of one.

The architecture was to die for. Oh. Em. Gee. Everywhere I turned I saw a wonderful mix of Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque architecture. And Split’s Venetian heritage is also prominently noticeable. Walking through this medieval town felt as if I had been teleported back to the days of Shakespeare! This happens to be the northern gate to the main Palace (more on that later).

But Split is so much more than architectural scenery. It comes alive in its cultural film and theatre festivals, exhibitions, museums and other eclectic forms of entertainment. It is the home of nearly a dozen Olympic medal winners along with other sports medal winners which is quite a feat when you consider the relatively small size of this city which has only about 180,000 residents.

Lying on the Adriatic Sea, Split is the largest city in Dalmatia, the second largest in Croatia and has the second largest cargo harbor in the country as well as one of the largest passenger harbors on the Mediterranean. 

Speaking of Mediterranean, Split has much to offer its residents and tourists alike thanks to the wonderful year round climate. Winters are mild, springtime is amazing, summer heat can be diverted by a trip to the nearby islands such as Brac, Hvar or Solta, and autumn is when the water along the coast is at its best temperature.

“There is no place like Split” is a saying of the locals. And I can definitely see why. And the laid back small town atmosphere is so appealing. Their typical greeting is “Pomalo!” which means “take it easy!” How is that for laid back?

Let me take you on a tour to Split, Croatia so that you can get a better feel for this ancient city and give you lots of reasons to come for a visit!

Diocletian’s Palace

One of the most popular attractions in Split is the Palace of Diocletian which is considered one of the best preserved monuments of Roman architecture in the world. And let me tell you it is grand. It was built in approximately 300 AD the remains of which are included in the historic core of the city of Split and listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The builders and architects are not known. 

At each of the four corners of the Palace walls stand a large tower with doors (gates) on each of the four sides.

There happened to be some kind of event going on in the inner court of the Palace the day we visited, with music and speakers, but I snuck in to take a picture anyway. HA!

Amazing in-tact ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. So incredible to see.

Diocletian’s Palace :: Golden Gate (north main entrance)

The Roman name for the Golden Gate is “Porta Septemtrionalis” and were built in the shape of a rectangle with double doors. At the time the Palace was built in 305 this entrance could only be used by the Emperor and members of his family. The niches of Diocletian, Maximian, Galerius and Constantius Chlorus were used as decoration. In the 16th century and under the influence of Venice the name of the gates were changed to Porta Aurea or Golden Gates.

Diocletian’s Palace :: Silver Gate (east entrance)

Porta Orientalis is the Roman name for both the East (Silver) and West (Iron) gates and are more modest in its decorations and was closed from the Middle Ages until 1952 after which it was reconstructed. Octagonal towers remain on each side of the gate. Through this gate you can walk on the original ancient pavement. And in 2000 Pope John Paul II passed through this entrance on his way to Domnius Cathedral (where he later was said to have prayed).

Diocletian’s Palace :: Iron Gate (west entrance)

In the 11th century Church of Our Lady of the Belfry was built above the door dedicated to St. Theodor. The city clock there has 24 digits instead of the usual 12. 

Palaces around Diocletian’s Palace

From reading more about the area around the Diocletian Palace I found out that many prominent and distinguished citizens of the day built their own residences and palaces in and around the Diocletian Palace so everywhere I turned I found placards about these palaces, some remaining as residences or lodgings and some having been turned into shops or museums. It is so interesting to see the preserved courtyards, portals, staircases, loggias and windows.

If you are interested in reading more about these other palaces you can do so by clicking here.

Church of St. Martin – the narrowest church in Split

One of my favorite surprises was finding tucked into a sentry’s walkway above the Golden Gate to Diocletian’s palace, one of the oldest churches in Split dedicated to Saint Martin, the patron saint of soldiers. St. Martin is considered “one of the best preserved sacral monuments of the ancient world” with a beautifully carved pre-Romanesque altar partition that has not been moved from its original place since the 11th century. It is really a very special place.

The narrowest church in the city, some say it may even be the narrowest in the world at 1.64m wide and 10m long. Luckily we saw the sign on the wall that led up to a narrow staircase. It is not an easy find. But I’m really glad we paid attention to the placards on the walls!

Boat Tour

Having only a few days in Split we wanted to make sure to get on the beautiful water around Split so a boat trip seemed like the best way to go. We opted for a speedboat that took us out to the Blue Lagoon, Solta (quick stop for lunch) and then out to Trogir a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Blue Lagoon

Our first stop on our boat tour was to the Blue Lagoon. Our timing wasn’t the best to enjoy this beautiful area. Had the sun been out in its full glory we would have seen a different color blue we were told. Nonetheless it was a beautiful spot. And although the water was a bit chilly it was clear and you could see all the way down to the ocean floor. The shore is rocky so there is no beach. And we must have come at a time when the facilities were closed. Bummer. But there were plenty of trees for shade. No facilities and no amenities here. Just amazing water.

Tips :: 1. Be sure to wear water shoes because there are lots of rocks in the water. 2. The ocean is your bathroom. 3. Bring your own snacks and drinks if you plan to spend some time here.

Solta

I would have loved to stay a little longer and actually roam around this picturesque coastal town on the shores of Solta but we only stopped for a short lunch and we were on our way. Lunch, by the way, was yummy and we really enjoyed it!

Trogir

This amazing ancient town is connected to the mainland of Croatia by a bridge. We of course took a speedboat on our tour but I was over the moon to be given such a surprise and gift. From afar I could already tell that Trogir was going to be an experience I would not forget :: you could see the charm of this ancient city from miles away!

I have written a separate post on Trogir which you can read by clicking here.

Old Town Split

My heart was full walking around Split’s Old Town with the splendid culture and heritage beaming from every angle. Many times during our walks through town I was overwhelmed not knowing in which direction to look first. Old Town is truly a feast for the eyes and where antiquity and urban life fully intersect.

Split Riva

The Riva (waterfront) promenade is the most popular place in Split and a pedestrian’s heaven. When you take the time to wander around the Riva you will see why it is so popular. With all the cafes and restaurants here it is lively during the day as well as all night.

And the views are truly spectacular. They say the best time to be here at the Riva is during the celebration dedicated to the patron saint of Split :: St. Domnius. Splicani are very proud of their city indeed and they have a lot to be proud of.

Republic Square

Trg Republik (Republic Square) is a large open square located just west of Riva, past Marmontova. It is surrounded on three sides by an elaborate red neo-Renaissance structure known as Prokurative. Locals therefore call the square Prokurative and rarely by its real name. The southern side of the square is open, providing a breathtaking view of the harbor front.

Green Market (Pazar)

I love wandering through the markets everywhere I travel and so we had to see what they call the Green Market (locally known as Pazar) in Split where market day is every day because a visit to the market is a daily ritual for locals. It’s fun to see the local people in their element, it is definitely worth a visit.

Cathedral of St. Domnius

This Cathedral is located in the oldest building in Split :: the Mausoleum of the Roman Emperor Diocletian who was a persecutor of Christians. In the 7th century altars and relics of executed martyrs St. Domnius and St. Anastasius took an honorary place here.

The Cathedral’s Christian worship services have continued non-stop for a millennium and on Split’s patron saint’s St. Domnius’s Day they hold a traditional procession and Sunday mass.

The main altar took from 1685 until 1689 to be built. The wooden bench rests which originally stood in front of the main altar were carved in the first half of the 13th century and are the most important work in the Baroque choir.

Bell Tower

The most original Dalmatian medieval architecture which started in the 13th century is the Bell Tower of the Cathedral of St. Domnius. Reconstruction took place at the turn of the 20th century and today you can climb the steps all the way to the top of the tower to see a spectacular view of the entire city of Split. Isn’t this a gorgeous view?

Read More ::

Magical Prague :: 20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit

Lisbon :: One of My Very Favorite Cities in Europe

How to See Bangkok in 3 Days

Liverpool Attractions You Seriously Shouldn’t Miss

My final thoughts about Split are this :: I am so glad that we took the time to visit this amazing city and took our boat tour to Trogir. It wasn’t originally on my radar but when push came to shove it did not disappoint whatsoever. One thing I would have loved to do is spend more time and perhaps even stay overnight in Trogir.

I highly recommend a visit to the islands of Croatia. Give yourself a minimum of three days (for the true history buffs I recommend five) and take the time to enjoy everything this beautiful area on the Adriatic has to offer!

The post Split :: When in Croatia Make Sure You Do This appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.

When we arrived we were told we only had a few hours here so we immediately set out through the elegant North Gate where we found ourselves immediately within the well-preserved walls of this amazing medieval city which is a UNESCO World Heritage and holds many iconic landmarks. I found it to be completely captivating. Many perfectly preserved buildings here date back to the Middle Ages and we found the same beautiful marble streets and old-fashioned street lights throughout which give Trogir a wonderful romantic ambiance. Oh, and all the differing ancient styles of doors, balconies and alleyways. Right up MY “alley.” HA!

In the John Paul II square lies Saint Lawrence’s Cathedral which was built in the 12th century and took almost 500 years to build. Beautiful views are to be had from the attached and famous Clock Tower at 47 meters high. And a lovely respite can be had at the attached Loggia. This exterior gallery made up of arches on columns was a perfect place to rest in the shade, drink in the beauty around us and do some people watching.

We then took a stroll to the outside of the walls to Kamerlengo Castle, a mid 15th-century Venetian fortress, where I took in breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea. We then did the same back on the promenade along the water before heading out back to Split. Trogir’s coastline is beautiful with a view of deep blue water everywhere I looked. The atmosphere there is truly delightful and I was really sad to leave.

Check out the sites we were able to visit in our short time in Trogir ::

St. Lawrence Cathedral and Bell Tower (Trogir Cathedral)

St. Lawrence Cathedral is considered one of the finest architectural achievements in Croatia. Built on the site of a destroyed ancient church construction started in 1193 but wasn’t completed until 1500. Its amazing Romanesque door flanked by two stone lions is one of its notable features. 

The climb up the 47-meter tall bell tower is open to the public for a nominal fee. Don’t miss the Renaissance Chapel of St. Ivan which features many fine paintings.

Cipiko Palace

Cipiko Palace is located in the Town Square across from the main entrance of the Trogir Cathedral. It was home to one of the region’s most prominent families of the same name during the 15th century and the product of two splendid palaces joined together featuring an amazing Venetian Gothic window and a carved wooden statue of a cockerel taken from a Turkish ship.

The City Gates: Land Gate

This was the main entrance to Trogir during the 15th century and a vital part of the defense walls, the doorway of which even housed a drawbridge. It was rebuilt in the 17th century in late-Renaissance style. 

Note the Lion of St. Mark above the door’s arch (symbol of Venice) and the statue of St. John of Trogir (Sv Ivan Trogirski, the patron saint of Trogir).

The St. Sebastian Clock Tower and City Loggia

Standing on John Paul II Square and next to the Loggia is one of the city’s most famous landmarks with its large blue face and domed roof and once part of the church of St. Sebastian.

The Loggia can be reached by a few steps and was once linked with the Church of St. Mary.

St. Dominic Monastery

St. Dominic Monastery was founded in 1265 although much has been added over the years such as the church and nave. Inside the exquisite interior you will find a number of old tombs such as those of Ivan and Simun Sobota (well-known humanists). The triumphal arch and altar made of wood dates back to 1600 as well as a number of important works of art and religious relics.

The Church of St. Peter

Although the outside is rather plain looking the interior of St. Peter’s Church features a number of important paintings by Molinari and Lazzarini as well as 17th century sculptures by Jakov Jucen who designed the building’s paneled ceiling and wooden carved statues of St. Peter and St. Paul.

The Church of St. Peter is best known for the half-sculpture of St. Peter looking down with the Bible in his hand.

Kamerlengo Castle and St. Mark’s Fortress

A fortress surrounded by a ditch filled with sand back in the day as part of the defense system, Kamerlengo Castle and St. Mark’s Tower (round shaped) withstood long sieges from Turk attacks, once with guns at the ready.

Today the interior courtyard is used for open-air concerts and theatre.

Read More ::

10 Absolutely Incredible Sites in Prague

10 Best Girlfriends Getaways in 2019

10 Beatles Attractions in Liverpool

10 Reasons to Have Your
Destination Birthday in Bali

Trogir is one of the finest surprise gifts in my travels. What a beautiful ancient town full of such well-preserved ancient ruins. The culture in Croatia is also really wonderful. The people are friendly and helpful and it is a pleasure to visit a place where the locals are truly grateful for you coming to see them.

Make your next travel destination Croatia and be sure to visit the islands and definitely don’t miss Trogir!

If you are interested in reading more about Trogir, check out this Wikipedia entry

The post Trogir :: Where Ancient Charm Meets Urban Life appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.

One of the absolute highlights in the Balkans (which includes the following countries :: Albania, Bosnia + Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Macedonia, Montenegro, Romania, Serbia, Slovenia and the geographical/political region of European Turkey), this city has everything from breathtaking views, historic buildings, ancient architecture and ridiculously gorgeous natural wonders. Dubrovnik is a one-of-a-kind city that should definitely be at the top of your travel itinerary, especially because the weather there remains amazing long after summer is gone. So you can comfortably travel there after many tourists have taken their kids back home for the new school year.

Side Note ::
Dubrovnik was a stop on a 14-day cruise to the Eastern Mediterranean (and may I just add :: the BEST cruise itinerary I’ve ever taken. EVER.) departing out of Istanbul and stopping in Ephesus, Corfu, Mykonos, Athens, Kotor, Dubrovnik, Civiteveccia (Rome), Livorno (Florence), Nice/Villefranche, Provence (Marseilles) and ending in Barcelona. 12 stops, with only 2 full days at sea. What an amazing cruise that was and I would take it again in a heartbeat if it was still available (unfortunately the cruise lines took Istanbul off of their itineraries for safety reasons after the bombing at the US Embassy there). My plan is to write about each and every one of those fascinating cities in upcoming posts, so stay tuned!

Back to Dubrovnik, it happened to be a super hot day at the end of August but Roydio and I were determined to walk (and climb and climb!) the Walls of Dubrovnik which took us all the way around Old Town. OMG. The heat definitely made it a challenge but it was beyond worth it! It took us longer than the estimated time of 2 hours not only because of the heat (rest and water!) but also because I stopped at every turn to capture literally EVERYTHING I could in the short time we were there! I wish we’d had much, much more time…

Fort Lovrijenac

Also known as St. Lawrence Fortress or Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar this 16th century seaside fortress is made of limestone and hosts theatrical performances outside the western wall of the city. I’m told that several seasons of Game of Thrones was filmed here.

The Croatian leg of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series takes place in Lovrijenac. Two drawbridges lead to the fort and above the gate there is an inscription Non Bene Pro Toto Libertas Venditur Auro “Freedom is not to be sold for all the treasures in the world.”

Cost :: Included in the cost of Walls of Dubrovnik entrance 54.79USD Click here for tickets.
Hours :: 8am to 7:30pm
Location :: Od. Tabakarije 29, 20000, Dubrovnik

St. John Fortress

Also called Mulo Tower St. John is one of the key forts in Dubrovnik built to protect the entrance to the port but currently the large interior of the fortress houses the Dubrovnik Maritime Museum and Aquarium. From the intriguing exhibits one can gain insight to why and how Dubrovnik Republic was so successful in its trade endeavors and how Dubrovnik became a wealthy merchant Republic.

Cost :: Click here for info about and tickets for the walking tour of Dubrovnik which includes St. John Fortress
Hours :: 8am to 7:30pm
Location :: Poljana Paška Miličevića, 20000, Dubrovnik

Stradun

Stradun, the 300-meter limestone-paved pedestrian “main street” through Old Town, is surrounded by the Walls of Dubrovnik. Undoubtedly one of Europe’s most picturesque pedestrian thoroughfares, the Stradun boasts many cafés and restaurants and is a great place to rest weary feet after a day touring Dubrovnik and also do one of my fave pastimes :: people-watching.

Cost :: Free and open to the public
Hours :: 24 hours
Location :: most of the streets in Old Town lead to Stradun

Dubrovnik Cathedral

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is its formal Roman Catholic name and is the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik. Beneath the Cathedral nearby archaeological excavations have revealed the foundations and walls of two older churches. The first was an early Christian basilica built sometime in the 7th or 8th century. Some say that this “new” church was financed by Richard the Lion-Heart on his return from the Third Crusade.

Cost :: Entrance is free and open to the public; ticket to enter the treasury is 2EU
Hours :: 9am to 5pm most days
Location :: Ul. kneza Damjana Jude 1, 20000, Dubrovnik

Tvrdava Minceta

Tvrdava Minceta is a 14th century fortress located on the north part of the walls facing toward the land at the highest point of Dubrovnik which offers a panoramic view of the city and Adriatic sea. Minceta is a large round fort with a massive base in the form with the Gothic crown sitting proudly on top.

Minceta is the very highest point in the Dubrovnik defense system, the name taken from the Mincetic family who were the owners of the ground where the tower was built the construction of which started in 1319 according to the design of architect Ranjina. You’ll be able to get some pretty fantastic views from this vantage point.

Cost :: Included in the entrance to the Wall (approx 30USD) or Click here for info and tickets on the Walking Tour
Hours :: 8am to 7:30pm daily
Location :: Ul. Ispod Minčete 9, 20000, Dubrovnik

Large Onofrio’s Fountain

Onofrio is a circular spring-water fountain built between 1438 and 1444 with carved stone masks out of which you can fill your water bottles any time of the day or night. Dubrovnik’s famous Big Fountain of Onofrio is probably the best known of the city’s many historic monuments.

Fresh spring water is available to the public from this and many other fountains around Dubrovnik. And it is certainly much needed if you’ll be there when the temperatures are as hot they were when we were there.

Cost :: Free and open to the public
Hours :: 24 hours
Location :: Pojana Paska Milicevica, 20000, Dubrovnik

Pile Gate

For centuries Dubrovnik’s famous Pile Gate is the north/main entrance to Old Town Dubrovnik. and is still the most interesting access point to this fabulous old city, formerly surrounded by a moat complete with a drawbridge built in 1537. Carved into the gate is a statue of Sveti Vlaho (St. Blaise), the patron saint of Dubrovnik.

Cost :: Free and open to the public
Hours :: 24 hours
Location :: Ul. Grata od Pila, 20000, Dubrovnik

King’s Landing

King’s Landing is the main filming location for the very popular television series “Game of Thrones.” The tours will take you to some of the locations used in the filming of this award-winning series.

If you’re a fan of the show this is a MUST do. Especially since they aired its final episode just last month on May 19, 2019.

Cost :: Click here for tickets to the 22.84USD small group walking tour
Hours :: 24 hours
Location :: Brsalje ul. bb, 20000, Dubrovnik

Dominican Monastery

In Gothic-style architecture this religious complex / museum was founded dating back to 1225 however actual use of the building did not occur until the 14th century and the bell towers were not added until the 18th century. 

The Dominican Monastery is one of the most important architectural parts of Dubrovnik and major treasury of cultural and art heritage there as the museum of the monastery exhibits many paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from the rich history of Dubrovnik.

Even with the many tourists who linger here it is a very peaceful place in which it is easy to reflect what it must been like in that time in the 14th century. Surreal, really.

Cost :: Entrance to the museum is 15 Kuna
Hours :: 9am to 6pm
Location :: Ul. Svetog Dominka 4, 20000, Dubrovnik

Sponza Palace

Also called Divona, “Sponza” in Latin means “the spot where rainwater is collected.” Designed in both Gothic and Renaissance architecture this 16th century palace was built between 1516 and 1522. The palace has served a variety of public functions, including as a customs office and bonded warehouse, mint (until after the fall of the Republic), armory, treasury, bank and school. It is currently home to the city archives (in terms of volume one of the largest in the world) which hold documents dating back to the 12th century. The palace is also currently used as a performance venue. And a memorial of Croatian soldiers killed in the last war is housed in there. 

The details in the architecture are stunning.

Cost :: Free to enter inner court; Treasury costs 2EU
Hours :: 8am to 7pm
Location :: Stradun 2, 20000, Dubrovnik

Cafe Buza

If you love drinking ice cold beer, lazing in the sun and cliff jumping into the crystal clear Adriatic ocean then you’re in for a treat. Is this what the original “dive bar” was named after?

Hanging out at a Buza Bar is definitely one of those things that you have to do if you come to Dubrovnik but there are a few things you may want to be prepared for before you go :: Buza Bar is no longer the the secret it used to be so it gets very crowded. The servers aren’t the friendliest (probably because they want to get people in and out as quickly as possible) and the bar serves only drinks, no food. You’ll pay about 6.50USD for a beer. And it may not be cold as they advertise. And they will serve your wine in a plastic cup. If you’re ok with all of that, make sure you bring water shoes to climb the rocks if you plan to dive in the water!

To find these epic spots, walk the main old town street clockwise around past all the shops and restaurants. You will eventually walk past a small doorway/hole in the wall (literally!). There is spray paint on the wall inside reading “NO TOPLESS” (HA!) that leads around to the right – you should be able to hear the music! This is Buza Bar 1 and it is the larger of the two. It has much more space for sunbathing and tables & chairs for chilling out. But be prepared for some seriously uncomfortable sunbathing! As you’ll find a lot in Europe, rocks and concrete slabs are known as their beaches. Remember, you’re coming for the experience!

Cost :: menu pricing
Hours :: 8am to 10pm
Location :: Crijevićeva ul. 9, 20000, Dubrovnik

Franjo Tudman Bridge

Originally designed to begin building in 1989 the process on the Franjo Tudman Bridge was halted due to the Croatian War of Independence. When it finally did open in 2002 this 1700-foot-long lopsided cable-stayed bridge was named after Croatia’s first president after its independence from Yugoslavia and cut the drive west from Dubrovnik by 20 minutes. If you park at the lot on the far side of the bridge you will get a wonderful view of Gruž Harbour and the Elafiti archipelago.

Cost :: Free and open to the public
Hours :: 24 hours
Location :: Suspended over the Rijeka Dubrovacka, near the Port of Gruz

There are TONS of other sites to see in Dubrovnik but it is impossible to even scratch the surface on a one-day cruise stop. What I enjoy about cruising is that you are exposed to many different destinations that one day you can go back to and spend more time. Croatia is one of those destinations to which I will return again and again I’m sure of it!

Read More ::

Lisbon :: One of My Very Favorite Cities in Europe

10 Unique Things to See and Do in Prague

Beginner’s Guide to Eating in Barcelona

Best Travel Tips After 30 Years of Traveling

What a beautiful and picturesque place Dubrovnik is! It has all the history and architecture and culture and texture that I seek to find on my travels. My heart was full this day. The gelato was so refreshing and super tasty (one of the best I’ve had outside of Italy) and Roydio really enjoyed the iced coffee here! So happy that this city was on our cruise itinerary.

Update :: We flew back to Croatia on a trip to Europe, this time to Split, where we spent a little more time and also had the opportunity to visit the surrounding areas including UNESCO World Heritage Site in Trogir. Such a beautiful and interesting place. I’ll be writing about that trip in a future post so stay tuned for more on Croatia!

The post Dubrovnik Croatia :: A Must-See Gem in the Balkans appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.