On our journey through Colombia we flew from Armenia to Medellin. 

We were assured that in recent years Medellin has been transformed to a safe place to travel. Of course we are always aware of the dangers of walking the streets at night so that is something we generally avoid no matter where we go. This city was no different. But honestly we never felt unsafe anywhere we went throughout Colombia.

DO … visit La Comuna 13

On our first full day in Medellin, a city once heartbreakingly lost to violence with a most tumultuous history, notorious for the drug and gang wars that once dominated the area, we really wanted to visit La Comuna Trese (13) an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another which I had read had made an amazing transformation since the days of Pablo Escobar.

I am so thrilled to have taken the time to visit because this is a city with a story of meaningful change, credited to its residents and their resiliency to reinvent itself, transforming the neighborhood which was once a pivotal center for paramilitary, guerrilla and gang activity and a location ideal for crime into a place of optimism that’s livable, vibrant and growing. La Comuna 13 is an amazing place and one I fell in love with.

Since its transformation residents are no longer afraid to leave their homes and quality of life has changed for the good. As we walked through the narrow roadways, kids were playing soccer in the streets, vendors were selling fruit and empanadas and we laughed with friendly shopkeepers who let us sample their signature green mango ice cream topped with lime and salt. It felt safe, comfortable, friendly.

The one thing that is very evident as we walk along the streets is the graffiti. This is what La Comuna 13 is known for :: artistic scenes on its walls. As I came to find out it was art that saved the city, used as a vehicle for creative and political expression. The walls became a canvas to tell its history, beautifying the area and bringing optimism and peace. And there is a story to every artist’s work. I recommend taking a tour so that you can hear the stories for yourself and experience what makes this place so special.

Enjoy the photos I took of some the amazing walls in La Comuna 13. Hopefully it will compel you pay it a visit one day.

DON’T … believe all the hype

Nowhere in our travels to Colombia did we ever feel unsafe. Everywhere we walked we found friendly people and safe atmospheres. Please don’t believe all the hype about dangerous Colombia. Be mindful wherever you go but don’t let it stop you from enjoying your travels!

DO … go see Botero Plaza

A well-known artist born in Medellin is Fernando Botero Angulo. (As a side note, the culture of Latin Americans is to use first the father’s last name and second the mother’s last name) His signature style called Boterismo (no need to describe what it is, just take a look at my photos) makes him the most recognized artist from Latin America and self-titled “the most Colombian of Colombian artists.” In 1958 he won 1st prize at the Salon de Artistas Colombianos and has attained international recognition for his paintings, drawings and sculptures (some of his pieces have sold in the millions of dollars) with exhibitions all over the world. And in 2012 he received the International Sculpture Center’s Lifetime Achievement in Contemporary Sculpture Award.

His donation of 23 bronze sculptures for the front of the Museum of Antioquia in Medellin became known as the Botero Plaza which is where all of my photos were taken.

DON’T … miss going to the museum

One thing I wish we would have done is to go into the Museo de Antioquia which is rated as one of the best museums in Medellin and housed in the previous Municipal Palace. It was right there under my nose and I just had a lapse in judgment. It is recommended that you start on the third floor and work your way down.

Louise didn’t go to the Museo de Antioquia. Don’t be like Louise.

DO … eat at Mercado Del Rio

As we travel around the world one of my favorite things to do is visit a mercado. Basically the word mercado means “market” but that definition has been expanded to include fine eateries, like a food court but much more elegant and trendy, and with many amazing food restaurants to choose from. Some do include the sales of produce and seafood and meat as well. While in Medellin we went to Mercado Del Rio and it was beautiful!

Here they serve everything from alcoholic beverages to appetizers to main courses and desserts… and the atmosphere is awesome! They even have large screen TV’s throughout playing the ever popular futbol (soccer). Fabulous! This mercado did not disappoint, for sure.

I would definitely recommend this mercado. But don’t let that stop you from finding others! This was our final night with family and friends – it was a great way to end our time together.

DON’T … forget to bring all your friends!

Mercado del Rio is a great place to hang out with your friends! The atmosphere really lends itself to fun in every sense of the word. Food, friends and fun all go together so have yourselves a great time!

DO … visit Marinilla

We had a wonderful tour guide to drive us out to a famous landmark in Guatape but on our way we had to stop in this yet another adorable Colombian town with yet another cute plaza.

In the municipality of Marinilla we visited the Museo del Cristo y las Cruces where you will find more than 2700 crosses of different styles, sizes, materials and countries of origin on display. The collection was donated in 2005 by Roberto Hoyos Castaño who collected the pieces for more than 35 years from his travels around the world.

DON’T … miss stopping for a cup of cafe

Marinella is a great little town to stop for … what else? COFFEE! Every city in Colombia is actually a great place because after all you are in Coffee Country! Try a cup at 9Bares Tienda de Cafe. It’s highly rated on TA!

DO … climb La Piedra del Penol

Our plans in Medellin included several adventures that we were very excited to participate in…. one of them being to climb La Piedra del Penol. This is a famous landmark also called The Rock of Guatape. At its highest point it is 7005 feet above sea level and is composed of quartz, feldspar and mica. 

At the base you will find food and market stalls. As you climb there are several “resting” points (at least that’s what I used them for HA!) and halfway up is a shrine to the Virgin Mary.

It was an extremely hot and humid day but we did it! We climbed a whopping 745 steep steps to the very top! WHEW!

When we got there there we found a three-story viewpoint tower, a souvenir shop (I bought a “rock” for my collection – how original, right?), a bar and there are lots of chairs and tables where you can enjoy a little refreshment before making your way down.

If you ever find yourself in this area of Colombia this is an absolute must do!

DON’T … miss out on the cerveza michelada con mango

It is tradition to celebrate your climb by having a cerveza michelada con mango, the local beer, which they serve with salt and lime on the rim of the glass. Although I’m not a beer drinker I did have a sip of Roydio’s to celebrate making the trek and then I ordered my fave drink in Colombia :: limonada de cocos (coconut lemonade). OMG it is FABulous! We were both pretty proud of ourselves having made it on this hot and very humid day and these cold drinks were just the ticket!

DO … visit Guatape 

We made our way to Guatape where we stopped again to enjoy another beautifully colorful town.

When you get to the city of Guatape you will find a square. Of course. Like every other town in Colombia. And oh the beautiful Colombian colors were everywhere! I loved it!

And you’ll find great views of La Piedra del Penol on the way as well!

DON’T … miss taking a boat tour!

The building of the dam (see more info below) created a truly picturesque place. We were smart and took a boat tour on the reservoir. And I must say it was a perfect day to be on the water! Don’t miss your chance to take this wonderful tour!

DO … enjoy Viejo El Penol

Since we were in the town of El Penol, or what we thought was El Penol, we had to look around and check it out…

We found out that this is just a replica of the original town which was founded on June 20, 1714 but had to be relocated in 1978 because of a flood and they had to construct a hydroelectric dam which created the Guatape reservoir as we know it today.

If you want to get a taste of how the old town of El Peñol might have been, you can stop at Viejo Peñol, featuring a reconstructed plaza and church. There are souvenir shops and a couple places to grab coffee, ice cream, or something to eat.

DON’T … forget to bring your good camera

Make sure you find your way to the outside behind the shops and you will find THE BEST views of the city! OMG you will not believe how photographic this town is! If you’re looking to take some Instagram-worthy pics, this is definitely the place to go!

DO … take Cable car up to Parque Arvi

It seems that everywhere we went in Colombia we ended up on top of a mountain. I had many opportunities to overcome my fear of heights HA! But I must say that the views are tremendous and it was worth every trek UP!

It was getting late in the day and even though it was closing soon we decided to take the cable car up to Parque Arvi which is both an ecological nature preserve and pre-Hispanic archeological site on the eastern slopes of Aburrá Valley in the northeast area of Medellín.

The cost to take the cable car from the metro to Santo Domingo was included in the metro ticket but there we paid 4600 COP ($1.50US) per person for a 10-minute ride up to the park which is a very large, 4352 acres in fact, ecological park deep in the woods on top of the eastern mountains of Medellin where you can hike all around. It was a pretty amazing ride over the tall pine and eucalyptus trees in this forest.

When we got to the park entrance we had a relaxing time exploring the beautiful surroundings. There are some displays with information about Parque Arvi there and some shops and a restaurant as well as some comfortable seating scattered all around.

We ordered some refreshments at the cafe and just enjoyed our surroundings and relaxed for a while before heading down to Santo Domingo.

I highly recommend a trip up in the cable car in Medellin to Parque Arvi. Whether or not you hike the trails in the park or not – trust me you will be rewarded with some of the best views of the city! And if you’re able, time it so that you get the sunset on your way down!

DON’T … expect for anyone to speak English

As a matter of fact, everywhere you travel in Colombia you will be hard-pressed to find English-speaking people. You will be able to find some tour guides that will speak English but not here in Parque Arvi. And as a general rule the local people do not speak English at all.

DO … stop in Santo Domingo

Since it’s on the way down from Parque Arvi Santo Domingo is a great place to stop, especially if you’re looking for some local interaction and community engagement in your travels. Once known to be one of the most violent neighborhoods in Comuna Popular it has turned over a new leaf in its progressing atmosphere and urban improvement initiatives. 

We enjoyed walking the streets of Santo Domingo. Again, we felt completely safe here. And it was really nice to see how the locals live.

DON’T … be afraid to eat on the streets

We had absolutely no worries about eating on the streets anywhere in Colombia. The food is yummy and safe to eat! Here in Santo Domingo you can eat on the streets for much cheaper than in the city. We ordered a local plato (plate) of pollo (chicken) with all the trimmings for a mere 5000 COP ($1.75 US). It was yummy and more than enough for the two of us :: we even had some leftovers to feed a local street dog.

DO … splurge at San Carbon Restaurant

Before leaving Medellin we chose on our final night to enjoy dinner at a nice restaurant located right up the street and walking distance from our hotel. Known for their steaks, the food was delicious, the atmosphere indeed was “fancy” and there was live jazz music which we also really enjoyed. It was a great way for us to end our amazing time in Medellin.

DON’T … expect to pay local prices

Prices at San Carbon are higher than the average restaurant in Medellin, or for Colombia in general, but if you’re looking to have a nice dinner this is the place to go. Excellent food and atmosphere!

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Medellin was one of the biggest surprises on my travels to Colombia. Not only was I intimidated by all the hype about it not being a safe place to travel but this amazing city blew me away and made me a believer in all things good about in the world.

If there is one thing that I hope you gleaned from this post is that you can safely and happily travel to this city and have the most amazing time of your life here. I do hope you will follow my lead and come support all the wonderful things Medellin has been doing and continues doing to transform a bad story into a good one. Because that is exactly what is happening in this place. How blessed I feel for having had the opportunity to experience it.

The post Medellin :: 10 Do’s and Don’ts You Must Know appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.

“Why would you go to Armenia of all places in Colombia?” you might ask. Let me preface my answer by saying that neither Roydio nor I speak much Spanish (save for the few words and phrases we’ve learned over the years living in California) and yet we found ourselves in Colombia for the very first time, a country where very few people speak or understand English. Our motivation for visiting was a young couple from Colombia whom we had met while vacationing in China. We kept in touch over the years and had hoped to meet each other on the road again but our paths never crossed. So we decided to take matters into our own hands and visit them in their home country.

Our plan was to spend four weeks in Colombia exploring different parts of the country including a week in Bogota where our friends live, a week in Medellin, a week in Cartagena and then another week exploring the coast and Rosario Islands. But then we came upon the opportunity to spend our first week in Colombia with Roydio’s Spanish-speaking brother and his friends who happened to be traveling to Armenia during the time we were to be in Colombia. So although this particular city was not originally in our plans (not even on our radar, to be frank) we changed our itinerary to begin our Colombian journey there.

From what I was able to gather before our trip I found out that Armenia is the capital of Quindio department, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 (you know by now how much I love visiting UNESCO sites!) and named the Coffee Culture Landscape of Colombia, being an integral part of the coffee triangle, and one of the main centers of the national economy largely due to, I would venture to guess, its coffee production).

We were so excited to visit Colombia for the first time and Armenia turned out to be the perfect place to start. Forgive me for taking so long to answer the original question. Of all the amazing qualities held by this city and the areas surrounding it, here are the Top Seven Things I recommend doing when visiting Armenia ::

Warning: You may be getting a Spanish lesson in this post so… be prepared!

#7. Spend time in downtown Armenia.

Being in the center of Colombia’s coffee triangle you will find local cafeterias (coffee shops) on every corner. The people are friendly and are happy to give you samples of the foods they sell. They genuinely want you to taste the goodness before you buy. 

And speaking of taking time, I’d also recommend you visit some of the surrounding towns such as Salento, Buena Vista and Cocora Valley, each of which I will be mentioning again later in this post.

#6. Be sure to eat bandeja paisa.

Bandeja paisa (local Armenian meal) includes cerdo (pork) and huevos (eggs), frijoles (beans – I absolutely LOVED the flavorful frijoles!), chorizo (sausage), and try the mazamorra (porridge made with corn, milk, sugar cane) which are distinctive dishes in Armenia. 

Patacones (plantains) grow abundantly in Quindio department so naturally they have found many ways to eat it. One dish is “Salentune Patacon” which is a smashed, thin fried layer covered with queso molido (ground cheese), carne molido (ground beef) and salsa de pina (pineapple sauce).

Arepa, a thick tortilla-type food made of ground maize (corn), is also popular and can be eaten plain (be sure to add table salt!) along with huevos (eggs) and/or cheese and sometimes comes filled with pollo desmenuzado (shredded chicken), carne asada (roasted beef) or pieces of chicharron (fried pork belly).

TIP :: When eating plain arepas be sure to add table salt (there’s a reason they put salt on the table) because the flavor can be quite bland.

At one of the local places we had the pollo a la parrilla y papas (barbecued chicken and potatoes) and although that may sound like a simple meal the only thing simple about how the Armenia’s serve it is the way it simply melts in your mouth (see what I did there?) with a wonderful local flavor! And then always served with patacones.

TIP :: When tipping at a Colombian restaurant some people tip anywhere from 1000 pesos (less than 30 US cents) to 2000 pesos (less than 75 cents US). Locals generally tip very little if at all. Tipping is not expected but always appreciated.

I also recommend stopping at one of the local panaderias (bakeries) for the bunuelos (round fried dough balls or fritters like donuts only without the hole) or the cocadas blancas (or what we called “coconut balls” because really, that’s what they are) which are made with sweetened condensed milk. Oh Em Gee. You definitely don’t want to miss that.

There are a couple of nearby towns that are worth a visit as well. In Filandia try the desserts at La Casa Del Pandebon which served amazing baked items.

In Salento be sure to dine at La Fonda de los Arrieros which has a wonderful ambiance and where they serve the best traditional foods :: arepas, frijoles (beans), arroz (rice), chorizo (sausage), chicharron (pork belly) and aguacate (avocado) and don’t miss trying the refajo (local beer mixed with Colombiano which is a local soda) as well as lulo (local fruit which means “little orange” made into an amazing juice – my very fave in Armenia). They also have a little mariachi band that will come and play for you at your table. So fun!

#5. Visit a local finca (farm).

The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and it is really a wonderful treat to see how the livestock in Armenia is raised and treated and fed.

You might even consider a Farm Stay. Finca Hotel La Tata Premium in Pueblo Tapao Montenegro about a 30-minute drive east of Armenia comes highly recommended. Click on the link and check it out. Great reviews and property! Hiking and coffee/banana plantation tours can be arranged from here.

We had the pleasure of visiting our friends’ finca de la familia (family farm). Several of us milked the vacas (cows) and fed their babes (babies)… and a couple of us even rode the caballos (horses). It was a lovely way to spend the day for sure and I highly recommend you do this when you’re in Armenia.

I would highly recommend getting out into the open and visiting a finca or two in Armenia. It is truly a beautiful area and the air is so fresh and clean!

#4. Go river rafting in Montenegro – Balsaje Por El Rio La Vieja.

OK so Montenegro is a country in Europe but it’s also a city in Colombia near Armenia. Who knew? This was the most relaxing day we had in Armenia thus far and it was absolutely perfect! Rather than white-water rafting this is more of a “lazy” river rafting experience that floats along peacefully with the help of the two guides who kept us from bumping into the banks. Sometimes we got a little rush but most times it just gently took us along. And it went slow enough that we were able to jump into the river and just float (or swim) alongside the raft.

The time of year we did this the area had experienced 40 days without rain so we were not able to visit the anticipated waterfall La Cascada and although it was a disappointment it really didn’t take away from our rafting experience at all.

We took a lunch break in a beautiful spot overlooking the river which was absolutely perfect. Lunch was arroz, pollo, patacon and vegetales (vegetables) in a delicious sauce served altogether in a hoja de banana (banana leaf). OMG was it good! Seriously delicious!

TIP :: If it’s a super sunny day be sure to ask them to put up a roof for you (they are more than happy to oblige). It can get hot and being in the shade when you need it is really helpful.

#3. Go paragliding in Buena Vista.

I know, I said it. Me. With my overwhelming fear of heights which I am desperately trying to overcome. Well, by the coercion, I mean encouragement, of our friends and with some reticence as you can see in the pic below, I agreed to give it a try. OMG.

Running off a cliff was seriously one of the scariest things I’ve ever done in my life… who’s idea was this???

But I must say, once I was off the ground and some time had gone by (with the help of my instructor who owned the company *whew!* and who helped distract me by pointing out some interesting views in the distance) I am so glad I did it. The view was breathtaking (I think I’ve used this word many times in describing what I’ve seen of Colombia so far and I don’t think it will be the last) and the air was so fresh and clear. It was a perfect day. I had the perfect instructor. He even let me steer us for a while. One of the highlights of my life so far, for sure.

Considering everything is much more affordable in Colombia than in the US it was really refreshing to be able to do many activities without breaking the bank. For instance, our paragliding experience cost only $40US per person while in California it would cost anywhere from $175 to $250. I am so glad I didn’t chicken out and took the leap… It is definitely one thing checked off my bucket list and something I can brag about (hehe) for years to come.

After our successful experience in the air we spent some time in the cute little town of Buena Vista.

#2. Go horseback riding in the Andes Mountains.

Climb into a jeep for a 2-hour drive to Cocora Valley and ride up into the Andes Mountains on caballos that know the trail very well.

Definitely not a leisurely ride, it was an incredible experience with breathtaking views as we rode our caballos through narrow trails of rocks and streams and trees and waterfalls. This adventure is definitely not for the faint of heart but surely one I will never forget!

Our destination was a hummingbird sanctuary high in the hills to which we had to climb about 100 very steep steps. Once we got up there (whew!) we enjoyed the scenery, refreshments and the beautiful hummingbirds flitting about. This also gave our caballos a break before heading back to town.

Check out this slow-mo video I took of these adorable birds…

TIPS ::
#1. Again, this experience is not for the faint of heart. You will need to be a mediocre horseback rider or else they will give you a guide to help you along the trail as I did (I’ve only been on a horse a handful of times in my life).
#2. We had a dry and beautiful sunny day but I have heard that it can rain and get muddy on this trail so be prepared with a raincoat and boots.
#3. Be prepared for this ride to take your breath away at times. Seriously incredible.

#1. Visit a coffee farm and take the tour.

Since Armenia is located in the middle of the Coffee Triangle and named the Coffee Culture Landscape of Colombia for good reason it really is a must to see how the coffee is grown, harvested and prepared for public consumption. WakeCup Coffee Tour by Experiencia Cafetera is located about an hour’s drive south of Armenia in Pijao where you will experience an immersive, full-day coffee tour known to be one of the best coffee tours in Colombia. The tour will take you through every step of the production process as well as all the way through to the end product and how best to serve it.

There are also other farms and tours available in Salento and in Armenia itself. It doesn’t really matter where you go, just don’t miss the opportunity to take a tour. Especially if you’re a coffee connoisseur (but even if you aren’t – like me) you will not want to miss this experience.

In the pic above I am drinking coffee. Duh! But what you may not know is that I am NOT a coffee drinker. Well, unless you count Starbucks Frapuccino as coffee; most people don’t. HA!

But as I was explaining this to the server he gave me the rare opportunity to change my mind by giving me pure Colombian coffee with the actual coffee cherries as a sweetener instead of sugar (a true Colombian coffee shop does not believe in using sugar in coffee – in fact, they don’t even have it available in the store!). He asked me to chew the coffee cherry (the outside of the coffee bean that is usually removed before the bean is roasted) and then take a swallow of coffee and cherry at the same time. OMG.

This is the first time I have ever really enjoyed a cup of java. Wow. I wish we could get these coffee cherries in the US!

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Armenia was the perfect start to our time in Colombia. The fact that we were able to travel this week with Spanish-speaking people really helped us get more comfortable, learn and understand more Spanish.

But more than that our adventures in Armenia were unforgettable. The landscape was breathtaking. Everywhere we went we were overwhelmed by God’s beautiful creations in nature. I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to spend time in this incredible area of Colombia and especially to be able to spend it with family and friends.

Our next adventure in Colombia takes us to Medellin. Stay tuned in next week’s post for a recap of our time there. You will not want to miss it!

The post Armenia Colombia :: 7 Experiences Not to Miss appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.