On our journey through Colombia we flew from Armenia to Medellin. 

We were assured that in recent years Medellin has been transformed to a safe place to travel. Of course we are always aware of the dangers of walking the streets at night so that is something we generally avoid no matter where we go. This city was no different. But honestly we never felt unsafe anywhere we went throughout Colombia.

DO … visit La Comuna 13

On our first full day in Medellin, a city once heartbreakingly lost to violence with a most tumultuous history, notorious for the drug and gang wars that once dominated the area, we really wanted to visit La Comuna Trese (13) an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another which I had read had made an amazing transformation since the days of Pablo Escobar.

I am so thrilled to have taken the time to visit because this is a city with a story of meaningful change, credited to its residents and their resiliency to reinvent itself, transforming the neighborhood which was once a pivotal center for paramilitary, guerrilla and gang activity and a location ideal for crime into a place of optimism that’s livable, vibrant and growing. La Comuna 13 is an amazing place and one I fell in love with.

Since its transformation residents are no longer afraid to leave their homes and quality of life has changed for the good. As we walked through the narrow roadways, kids were playing soccer in the streets, vendors were selling fruit and empanadas and we laughed with friendly shopkeepers who let us sample their signature green mango ice cream topped with lime and salt. It felt safe, comfortable, friendly.

The one thing that is very evident as we walk along the streets is the graffiti. This is what La Comuna 13 is known for :: artistic scenes on its walls. As I came to find out it was art that saved the city, used as a vehicle for creative and political expression. The walls became a canvas to tell its history, beautifying the area and bringing optimism and peace. And there is a story to every artist’s work. I recommend taking a tour so that you can hear the stories for yourself and experience what makes this place so special.

Enjoy the photos I took of some the amazing walls in La Comuna 13. Hopefully it will compel you pay it a visit one day.

DON’T … believe all the hype

Nowhere in our travels to Colombia did we ever feel unsafe. Everywhere we walked we found friendly people and safe atmospheres. Please don’t believe all the hype about dangerous Colombia. Be mindful wherever you go but don’t let it stop you from enjoying your travels!

DO … go see Botero Plaza

A well-known artist born in Medellin is Fernando Botero Angulo. (As a side note, the culture of Latin Americans is to use first the father’s last name and second the mother’s last name) His signature style called Boterismo (no need to describe what it is, just take a look at my photos) makes him the most recognized artist from Latin America and self-titled “the most Colombian of Colombian artists.” In 1958 he won 1st prize at the Salon de Artistas Colombianos and has attained international recognition for his paintings, drawings and sculptures (some of his pieces have sold in the millions of dollars) with exhibitions all over the world. And in 2012 he received the International Sculpture Center’s Lifetime Achievement in Contemporary Sculpture Award.

His donation of 23 bronze sculptures for the front of the Museum of Antioquia in Medellin became known as the Botero Plaza which is where all of my photos were taken.

DON’T … miss going to the museum

One thing I wish we would have done is to go into the Museo de Antioquia which is rated as one of the best museums in Medellin and housed in the previous Municipal Palace. It was right there under my nose and I just had a lapse in judgment. It is recommended that you start on the third floor and work your way down.

Louise didn’t go to the Museo de Antioquia. Don’t be like Louise.

DO … eat at Mercado Del Rio

As we travel around the world one of my favorite things to do is visit a mercado. Basically the word mercado means “market” but that definition has been expanded to include fine eateries, like a food court but much more elegant and trendy, and with many amazing food restaurants to choose from. Some do include the sales of produce and seafood and meat as well. While in Medellin we went to Mercado Del Rio and it was beautiful!

Here they serve everything from alcoholic beverages to appetizers to main courses and desserts… and the atmosphere is awesome! They even have large screen TV’s throughout playing the ever popular futbol (soccer). Fabulous! This mercado did not disappoint, for sure.

I would definitely recommend this mercado. But don’t let that stop you from finding others! This was our final night with family and friends – it was a great way to end our time together.

DON’T … forget to bring all your friends!

Mercado del Rio is a great place to hang out with your friends! The atmosphere really lends itself to fun in every sense of the word. Food, friends and fun all go together so have yourselves a great time!

DO … visit Marinilla

We had a wonderful tour guide to drive us out to a famous landmark in Guatape but on our way we had to stop in this yet another adorable Colombian town with yet another cute plaza.

In the municipality of Marinilla we visited the Museo del Cristo y las Cruces where you will find more than 2700 crosses of different styles, sizes, materials and countries of origin on display. The collection was donated in 2005 by Roberto Hoyos Castaño who collected the pieces for more than 35 years from his travels around the world.

DON’T … miss stopping for a cup of cafe

Marinella is a great little town to stop for … what else? COFFEE! Every city in Colombia is actually a great place because after all you are in Coffee Country! Try a cup at 9Bares Tienda de Cafe. It’s highly rated on TA!

DO … climb La Piedra del Penol

Our plans in Medellin included several adventures that we were very excited to participate in…. one of them being to climb La Piedra del Penol. This is a famous landmark also called The Rock of Guatape. At its highest point it is 7005 feet above sea level and is composed of quartz, feldspar and mica. 

At the base you will find food and market stalls. As you climb there are several “resting” points (at least that’s what I used them for HA!) and halfway up is a shrine to the Virgin Mary.

It was an extremely hot and humid day but we did it! We climbed a whopping 745 steep steps to the very top! WHEW!

When we got there there we found a three-story viewpoint tower, a souvenir shop (I bought a “rock” for my collection – how original, right?), a bar and there are lots of chairs and tables where you can enjoy a little refreshment before making your way down.

If you ever find yourself in this area of Colombia this is an absolute must do!

DON’T … miss out on the cerveza michelada con mango

It is tradition to celebrate your climb by having a cerveza michelada con mango, the local beer, which they serve with salt and lime on the rim of the glass. Although I’m not a beer drinker I did have a sip of Roydio’s to celebrate making the trek and then I ordered my fave drink in Colombia :: limonada de cocos (coconut lemonade). OMG it is FABulous! We were both pretty proud of ourselves having made it on this hot and very humid day and these cold drinks were just the ticket!

DO … visit Guatape 

We made our way to Guatape where we stopped again to enjoy another beautifully colorful town.

When you get to the city of Guatape you will find a square. Of course. Like every other town in Colombia. And oh the beautiful Colombian colors were everywhere! I loved it!

And you’ll find great views of La Piedra del Penol on the way as well!

DON’T … miss taking a boat tour!

The building of the dam (see more info below) created a truly picturesque place. We were smart and took a boat tour on the reservoir. And I must say it was a perfect day to be on the water! Don’t miss your chance to take this wonderful tour!

DO … enjoy Viejo El Penol

Since we were in the town of El Penol, or what we thought was El Penol, we had to look around and check it out…

We found out that this is just a replica of the original town which was founded on June 20, 1714 but had to be relocated in 1978 because of a flood and they had to construct a hydroelectric dam which created the Guatape reservoir as we know it today.

If you want to get a taste of how the old town of El Peñol might have been, you can stop at Viejo Peñol, featuring a reconstructed plaza and church. There are souvenir shops and a couple places to grab coffee, ice cream, or something to eat.

DON’T … forget to bring your good camera

Make sure you find your way to the outside behind the shops and you will find THE BEST views of the city! OMG you will not believe how photographic this town is! If you’re looking to take some Instagram-worthy pics, this is definitely the place to go!

DO … take Cable car up to Parque Arvi

It seems that everywhere we went in Colombia we ended up on top of a mountain. I had many opportunities to overcome my fear of heights HA! But I must say that the views are tremendous and it was worth every trek UP!

It was getting late in the day and even though it was closing soon we decided to take the cable car up to Parque Arvi which is both an ecological nature preserve and pre-Hispanic archeological site on the eastern slopes of Aburrá Valley in the northeast area of Medellín.

The cost to take the cable car from the metro to Santo Domingo was included in the metro ticket but there we paid 4600 COP ($1.50US) per person for a 10-minute ride up to the park which is a very large, 4352 acres in fact, ecological park deep in the woods on top of the eastern mountains of Medellin where you can hike all around. It was a pretty amazing ride over the tall pine and eucalyptus trees in this forest.

When we got to the park entrance we had a relaxing time exploring the beautiful surroundings. There are some displays with information about Parque Arvi there and some shops and a restaurant as well as some comfortable seating scattered all around.

We ordered some refreshments at the cafe and just enjoyed our surroundings and relaxed for a while before heading down to Santo Domingo.

I highly recommend a trip up in the cable car in Medellin to Parque Arvi. Whether or not you hike the trails in the park or not – trust me you will be rewarded with some of the best views of the city! And if you’re able, time it so that you get the sunset on your way down!

DON’T … expect for anyone to speak English

As a matter of fact, everywhere you travel in Colombia you will be hard-pressed to find English-speaking people. You will be able to find some tour guides that will speak English but not here in Parque Arvi. And as a general rule the local people do not speak English at all.

DO … stop in Santo Domingo

Since it’s on the way down from Parque Arvi Santo Domingo is a great place to stop, especially if you’re looking for some local interaction and community engagement in your travels. Once known to be one of the most violent neighborhoods in Comuna Popular it has turned over a new leaf in its progressing atmosphere and urban improvement initiatives. 

We enjoyed walking the streets of Santo Domingo. Again, we felt completely safe here. And it was really nice to see how the locals live.

DON’T … be afraid to eat on the streets

We had absolutely no worries about eating on the streets anywhere in Colombia. The food is yummy and safe to eat! Here in Santo Domingo you can eat on the streets for much cheaper than in the city. We ordered a local plato (plate) of pollo (chicken) with all the trimmings for a mere 5000 COP ($1.75 US). It was yummy and more than enough for the two of us :: we even had some leftovers to feed a local street dog.

DO … splurge at San Carbon Restaurant

Before leaving Medellin we chose on our final night to enjoy dinner at a nice restaurant located right up the street and walking distance from our hotel. Known for their steaks, the food was delicious, the atmosphere indeed was “fancy” and there was live jazz music which we also really enjoyed. It was a great way for us to end our amazing time in Medellin.

DON’T … expect to pay local prices

Prices at San Carbon are higher than the average restaurant in Medellin, or for Colombia in general, but if you’re looking to have a nice dinner this is the place to go. Excellent food and atmosphere!

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Medellin was one of the biggest surprises on my travels to Colombia. Not only was I intimidated by all the hype about it not being a safe place to travel but this amazing city blew me away and made me a believer in all things good about in the world.

If there is one thing that I hope you gleaned from this post is that you can safely and happily travel to this city and have the most amazing time of your life here. I do hope you will follow my lead and come support all the wonderful things Medellin has been doing and continues doing to transform a bad story into a good one. Because that is exactly what is happening in this place. How blessed I feel for having had the opportunity to experience it.

The post Medellin :: 10 Do’s and Don’ts You Must Know appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.

We made the trek to Ephesus at the end of summer when the weather was still pretty hot. If you plan on visiting in the summer months my recommendation would be to bring plenty of water, a parasol and perhaps a couple of cooling cloths. The heat can be quite overwhelming.

Let me just tell you what I would consider 5 of the most compelling reasons to make Ephesus the next destination ::

#1 :: The ancient ruins in Ephesus are older than most.

The Ephesus everyone visits today was founded in the 4th century B.C. but the ancient ruins of the first city (and it is believed that there have been at least 5 cities) dates back to 10th century B.C.

Baths of Varius

Located north of the State Agora is a complex marble structure known as the Baths of Varius which was first built during the Hellenistic era, then enlarged in Roman and Byzantine times. In those days cities built baths for its townspeople :: they did not have them in each individual residence as we know them to be today. And the wealthiest people had their own separate bath houses which represented a great mark of status.

The baths consisted of three sections :: the frigidarium (cold water), the tepidarium (warm water) and caladium (hot water). Men and women did not bathe in the same bath (women were provided smaller baths in a separate building) but each used the three sections in their respective baths one at a time.

Fountains of Ephesus

Fountain of Trajan

Built in around 104 C.E. this fountain is one of the finest monuments in Ephesus with a statue of the Emperor of the same name in its center. The columns and statues that once surrounded the fountain can be found in the Ephesus Museum.

Fountain of Hydreion

The fountain of Hydreion is located beside the Memmius Monument and was one of the most outstanding ancient fountain ruins in Ephesus. This fabulous structure was built as a resting place for weary travelers, had three separate water basins and 4 of the Corinth-style columns can still be seen in front of the fountain.

Memmius Monument

Standing on the north side of the Domitian Square it was built during the reign of Augustus in the first century A.D. with a square fountain on the northwest facade. This monument was built in 87 B.C. to remember the conquering of Mithridates (who killed 80,000 Romans in his three year revolt with his army).

Prytaneion

The construction of the Prytaneion dates to the 3rd century B.C. but the ruins of the complex date back to the Augustan age. This was where religious ceremonies, official receptions and banquets were held and where the sacred flame symbolizing the heart of Ephesus was kept constantly lit in a four-cornered pit in the center of the ceremonial hall, a relic from the reign of Lysimachos. During excavations archeologists found 2 Artemis statues which are now present in Ephesus Museum.

#2 :: The ancient ruins in Ephesus have been recorded to be the longest lasting…

…in history, existing between 4th century B.C. and the 15th century A.D. despite all of the earthquakes, wars, diseases and fires they have endured.

Temple of Hadrian

Temple of Hadrian is one of the best preserved and most beautiful structures on Curetes Street and it truly is something to behold. It was built before 138 A.D by P. Quintilius and was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian who came to visit the city from Athens in 128 A.D. Emperor Hadrian was one of the Five of Good Emperors, a term that refers to five consecutive emperors of the Roman Empire— Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, Antoninus Pius and Marcus Aurelius.

At the front of the temple stand four Corinthian columns with a curved arch in the middle which contains a carving of Tyche, goddess of victory. The pedestals with inscriptions in front of the temple are the bases for the statues of the emperors between 293-305 CE :: Diocletian, Maximian, Constantius I and Galerius which have not yet been found.

Ephesus Latrines 

Situated next to the Temple of Hadrian in Ephesus these public toilet ruins (the ancient version of port-a-potties for which an entrance fee was required) were constructed along the wall like marble benches. A pool of clean water flowed continuously in the gutter in front of them. It’s interesting to me that people conducted their “business” without separate stalls, just like the baths.

Odeion of Ephesus

The Odeion of Ancient Ephesus was a small theatre financed by a wealthy citizen named Vedius Antonius. It has a semi-circular shape. It had low steps or ledges divided by passages and two corridors on each side to let people access the higher seats. There was also an orchestra and a podium.

There were five entrances to the podium in the front side of the theatre and along the street to the State Agora. The Odeion was adorned with pillars and it must have had a wooden roof in the past.

The Odeion was used for political meetings (senate house), social events, concerts and theatrical performances.

#3 :: Ephesus played a very important role in world history.

Ephesus was visited by Alexander the great, Julius Caesar, Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, and became home to St. Paul, St. John and the Virgin Mary. It was so wealthy that the Temple of Artemis, the third largest library Celsus Library and the Great Theatre, the largest theater of Asia Minor were all built there. One of the most impactful cities in the world I’ve had the pleasure of visiting, for sure.

Temple of Artemis

The original temple was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The complete ruins of this important temple is located in Seljuk not far away.

Today if you visit the original site in Ephesus only a foundation and sculptural fragments of its ancient ruins remain.

Also known as the Temple of Diana it was a Greek temple dedicated to the goddess Artemis. She was the twin of Apollo in Greek mythology and the daughter of Zeus and Leto.

Library of Celsus

Considered one of the most beautiful structures in Ephesus, Celsus Library was built in 117 A.D. as a monumental tomb for the governor of the province of Asia by the same name. His grave was beneath the ground floor with a statue of Athena goddess of wisdom over it.

The library held more than 12,000 scrolls, the third richest library in ancient times after Alexandria and Pergamum. Such fascinating details went into this structure.

The statues of Sophia ‘wisdom’, Episteme ‘knowledge’, Ennoia ‘intelligence’ and Arete ‘valor’ currently standing in the niches of the columns are copies of the originals which were taken to Ephesus Museum in Vienna in the early 1900’s.

Great Theatre

Also known as the Ephesus Great Theatre you can easily see it when you enter the city from the south, originally built in the Hellenistic era but enlarged during the Roman era. With a capacity of 25,000 seats (60 rows of seats divided by two aisles in three horizontal sections and 3 stories high) the Great Theatre is the largest of its kind in Anatolia (Asia Minor, which makes up most of modern-day Turkey).

It was used not only for concerts and plays but also for gladiator and animal fights as well as for religious, political and philosophical forums/discussions.

Basilica of St. John

Seeing the ruins of St. John’s Basilica was pretty surreal. Kind of like seeing the House of the Virgin Mary. The Basilica of St. John was regarded as one of the holiest churches of its time. But with the invasion of Turks the chapel was used as a mosque in the 14th century. Unfortunately the Basilica of St. John became unusable due to the serious earthquake in the same century. To give you more perspective on its size it was told to me that if the basilica were to have been completely rebuilt it would be the seventh largest church in the world.

The most striking feature of the basilica is its massive apse entrance which has been partially restored.

The construction of the basilica began in 548, completed by 565 and stands over the believed burial site of John the Apostle, originally a mausoleum of sorts, which served as a church. As it stands today the reconstruction of the basilica is yet incomplete.

Near the church they built an aqueduct to help the then uncultivated land around it flourish.

Tomb of St. John

St. John (Apostle, Evangelist) lived in Ephesus for a long time, wrote his gospel and died by the age of 100 in Ephesus. Raised by two steps and covered with marble, St. John’s tomb was located under the central dome of the basilica that was once carried by the four columns at the corners. Still pretty incredible to have been there and stood beside St. John’s tomb knowing who he was and what role he played in Christianity. So surreal. And a truly special place.

Statue of Virgin Mary

Ephesus is the place where the Virgin Mary (the mother of Jesus Christ) was reckoned to have spent her last years. The story has it that she died in Ephesus and most probably buried by St. John on the Mountain named Nightingale nearby Ephesus.

The golden statue of the Virgin Mary is located near the Basilica of St. John.

House of the Virgin Mary

Excavations in 1881 uncovered ancient stone foundations, most from the 500s and 600s but some from the 1st century A.D. when Mary would have been alive. After a visit by Pope Paul VI in 1967, the Catholic church confirmed the authenticity of the legend. Pope John Paul II visited in 1979 and Pope Benedict XVI in 2006.

Today the Virgin Mary’s House is rebuilt as a chapel and visited by millions of people every year to sip the waters of an adjoining spring said to have curative powers…

…to leave messages and prayers on the stone prayer wall…

…and to enjoy the pine-shaded mountaintop location.

Regardless of one’s religious proclivities it is hard not to be moved by a site that so many find sacred.

A service is held on August 15th each year commemorating the Virgin Mary’s Assumption.

 #4 :: When you walk along the marble streets of Ephesus it truly feels as if you have travelled back in time.

You will not see just some ruins here and there :: most of the city center has been excavated and re-erected. You will able to see not only most of the state and social buildings but thanks to the Austrian Archaeological Institute (started excavations in 1895 and with the exception of the interruption of WWI and WWII has continued uninterrupted since 1954; archaeologists of the Ephesus Museum and the Ministry of Culture and Tourism who accelerated their work as of 1979 as well) you can also see the interior of the houses of some of the wealthiest citizens of Ephesus. . With everything that has been uncovered still only 10% of the ancient city has been unearthed.

State Agora

Like the Baths of Varius, the State Agora was renovated multiple times during its history. The first agora on this site was built in the 6th century B.C. in Hellenistic style. During excavation that agora was found buried approximately 2 meters below the present Agora. This agora would have been used as a public area and a meeting place for governmental discussions.

In the center there was a temple dedicated to the Egyptian godess Isis built for the visit of  Marcus Antonius and Cleaopatra in 42 B.C. The current structure would have been built in the Roman Period in the first century B.C. and would have served as the chamber where all decision would have been voted on. It was demolished during the reign of Augustus and never rebuilt because of its connections with Egypt.

Lower Agora

The Lower or Commercial Agora was the most important trade center of Ephesus, one square mile in size and surrounded by columns with three gates.

In the center of the Agora was a sundial and a water clock (used in court hearings to measure the time allotted for each speaker). The Lower Agora was built in the third century B.C. in the Hellenistic era with ruins dating back to 211 C.E. 

According to some biblical scholars there is a high possibility of St. Paul having had a tent-making shop in the Commercial Agora of Ephesus between 53-56 A.D.

Terrace Houses

Ephesus terrace houses are located on the hill opposite the Hadrian Temple also called “the houses of rich.” They are important because they give us information about family life during the Roman period. Terrace houses were built according to the Hippodamian plan of the city in which roads intersected each other at right angels.

They had interior courtyards with a row of columns surrounding the space in the center with the ceilings open. Mostly built with two stories, with living rooms and dining rooms opening to the hall on the ground floor and bedrooms and guest rooms upstairs. But the second stories have all collapsed over time.

#5 :: Of all the guided tours in which I’ve taken part, IMHO the guides explaining the ancient ruins in Ephesus are among the best.

Apparently being a guide in Ephesus is a well-respected position and pays very well which is motivation for young people to seek after this line of work. As a result most have an extensive education and speak many languages fluently. When you take a guided tour in Ephesus you will be exposed to more information than you can absorb. I wish I had video or at least a voice recording of our guide (above) as a remembrance of our time in this amazing city.

Excavations and Restorations

Since 1954 much of the excavations and restorations have been carried out by the Austrian Archaeology Institute Team but also by the archaeologists of the Ephesus Museum. In their intensive work they have uncovered and restored many important structures. And as you walk the streets of Ephesus you can see the ruined pieces everywhere around you. I happened upon an archaeologist who was working along the side of the State Agora. He did not speak English so he let me just watch him as he worked. I found it so very interesting.

I was told that in recent years the focus has been more on the care and preservation of the buildings that have already been discovered rather than the actual excavation. In the past fifteen years many important structures and monuments have been restored. And in the course of the excavations which have now lasted over a century, only ten percent of the ancient city of Ephesus has been unearthed. Excavations in Ephesus will go on for many years with an emphasis on restorative works.

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Seriously, had I been exposed to the love of archaeology in my early years perhaps this is the path of education that I may have chosen to follow. It is all beyond interesting to me. And Ephesus was truly a treasure trove of archaeology! If you enjoy visiting historic ruins Ephesus definitely is one you shouldn’t miss!

The post Ephesus Ancient Ruins :: 5 Reasons to Visit appeared first on Where in the World is Louise?.