This post on Medellin is the second of my five-part series on Colombia, South America.
On our journey through Colombia we flew from Armenia to Medellin.
We were assured that in recent years Medellin has been transformed to a safe place to travel. Of course we are always aware of the dangers of walking the streets at night so that is something we generally avoid no matter where we go. This city was no different. But honestly we never felt unsafe anywhere we went throughout Colombia.
DO … visit La Comuna 13
On our first full day in Medellin, a city once heartbreakingly lost to violence with a most tumultuous history, notorious for the drug and gang wars that once dominated the area, we really wanted to visit La Comuna Trese (13) an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another which I had read had made an amazing transformation since the days of Pablo Escobar.
I am so thrilled to have taken the time to visit because this is a city with a story of meaningful change, credited to its residents and their resiliency to reinvent itself, transforming the neighborhood which was once a pivotal center for paramilitary, guerrilla and gang activity and a location ideal for crime into a place of optimism that’s livable, vibrant and growing. La Comuna 13 is an amazing place and one I fell in love with.
Since its transformation residents are no longer afraid to leave their homes and quality of life has changed for the good. As we walked through the narrow roadways, kids were playing soccer in the streets, vendors were selling fruit and empanadas and we laughed with friendly shopkeepers who let us sample their signature green mango ice cream topped with lime and salt. It felt safe, comfortable, friendly.
The one thing that is very evident as we walk along the streets is the graffiti. This is what La Comuna 13 is known for :: artistic scenes on its walls. As I came to find out it was art that saved the city, used as a vehicle for creative and political expression. The walls became a canvas to tell its history, beautifying the area and bringing optimism and peace. And there is a story to every artist’s work. I recommend taking a tour so that you can hear the stories for yourself and experience what makes this place so special.
Enjoy the photos I took of some the amazing walls in La Comuna 13. Hopefully it will compel you pay it a visit one day.
Where in the World is Louise? Medellin :: La Comuna 13 graffiti
DON’T … believe all the hype
Nowhere in our travels to Colombia did we ever feel unsafe. Everywhere we walked we found friendly people and safe atmospheres. Please don’t believe all the hype about dangerous Colombia. Be mindful wherever you go but don’t let it stop you from enjoying your travels!
DO … go see Botero Plaza
A well-known artist born in Medellin is Fernando Botero Angulo. (As a side note, the culture of Latin Americans is to use first the father’s last name and second the mother’s last name) His signature style called Boterismo (no need to describe what it is, just take a look at my photos) makes him the most recognized artist from Latin America and self-titled “the most Colombian of Colombian artists.” In 1958 he won 1st prize at the Salon de Artistas Colombianos and has attained international recognition for his paintings, drawings and sculptures (some of his pieces have sold in the millions of dollars) with exhibitions all over the world. And in 2012 he received the International Sculpture Center’s Lifetime Achievement in Contemporary Sculpture Award.
His donation of 23 bronze sculptures for the front of the Museum of Antioquia in Medellin became known as the Botero Plaza which is where all of my photos were taken.
Where in the World is Louise? Medellin :: Botero Plaza
DON’T … miss going to the museum
One thing I wish we would have done is to go into the Museo de Antioquia which is rated as one of the best museums in Medellin and housed in the previous Municipal Palace. It was right there under my nose and I just had a lapse in judgment. It is recommended that you start on the third floor and work your way down.
Louise didn’t go to the Museo de Antioquia. Don’t be like Louise.
DO … eat at Mercado Del Rio
As we travel around the world one of my favorite things to do is visit a mercado. Basically the word mercado means “market” but that definition has been expanded to include fine eateries, like a food court but much more elegant and trendy, and with many amazing food restaurants to choose from. Some do include the sales of produce and seafood and meat as well. While in Medellin we went to Mercado Del Rio and it was beautiful!
Here they serve everything from alcoholic beverages to appetizers to main courses and desserts… and the atmosphere is awesome! They even have large screen TV’s throughout playing the ever popular futbol (soccer). Fabulous! This mercado did not disappoint, for sure.
I would definitely recommend this mercado. But don’t let that stop you from finding others! This was our final night with family and friends – it was a great way to end our time together.
DON’T … forget to bring all your friends!
Mercado del Rio is a great place to hang out with your friends! The atmosphere really lends itself to fun in every sense of the word. Food, friends and fun all go together so have yourselves a great time!
DO … visit Marinilla
We had a wonderful tour guide to drive us out to a famous landmark in Guatape but on our way we had to stop in this yet another adorable Colombian town with yet another cute plaza.
In the municipality of Marinilla we visited the Museo del Cristo y las Cruces where you will find more than 2700 crosses of different styles, sizes, materials and countries of origin on display. The collection was donated in 2005 by Roberto Hoyos Castaño who collected the pieces for more than 35 years from his travels around the world.
DON’T … miss stopping for a cup of cafe
Marinella is a great little town to stop for … what else? COFFEE! Every city in Colombia is actually a great place because after all you are in Coffee Country! Try a cup at 9Bares Tienda de Cafe. It’s highly rated on TA!
DO … climb La Piedra del Penol
Our plans in Medellin included several adventures that we were very excited to participate in…. one of them being to climb La Piedra del Penol. This is a famous landmark also called The Rock of Guatape. At its highest point it is 7005 feet above sea level and is composed of quartz, feldspar and mica.
At the base you will find food and market stalls. As you climb there are several “resting” points (at least that’s what I used them for HA!) and halfway up is a shrine to the Virgin Mary.
It was an extremely hot and humid day but we did it! We climbed a whopping 745 steep steps to the very top! WHEW!
When we got there there we found a three-story viewpoint tower, a souvenir shop (I bought a “rock” for my collection – how original, right?), a bar and there are lots of chairs and tables where you can enjoy a little refreshment before making your way down.
If you ever find yourself in this area of Colombia this is an absolute must do!
DON’T … miss out on the cerveza michelada con mango
It is tradition to celebrate your climb by having a cerveza michelada con mango, the local beer, which they serve with salt and lime on the rim of the glass. Although I’m not a beer drinker I did have a sip of Roydio’s to celebrate making the trek and then I ordered my fave drink in Colombia :: limonada de cocos (coconut lemonade). OMG it is FABulous! We were both pretty proud of ourselves having made it on this hot and very humid day and these cold drinks were just the ticket!
DO … visit Guatape
We made our way to Guatape where we stopped again to enjoy another beautifully colorful town.
When you get to the city of Guatape you will find a square. Of course. Like every other town in Colombia. And oh the beautiful Colombian colors were everywhere! I loved it!
And you’ll find great views of La Piedra del Penol on the way as well!
DON’T … miss taking a boat tour!
The building of the dam (see more info below) created a truly picturesque place. We were smart and took a boat tour on the reservoir. And I must say it was a perfect day to be on the water! Don’t miss your chance to take this wonderful tour!
DO … enjoy Viejo El Penol
Since we were in the town of El Penol, or what we thought was El Penol, we had to look around and check it out…
We found out that this is just a replica of the original town which was founded on June 20, 1714 but had to be relocated in 1978 because of a flood and they had to construct a hydroelectric dam which created the Guatape reservoir as we know it today.
If you want to get a taste of how the old town of El Peñol might have been, you can stop at Viejo Peñol, featuring a reconstructed plaza and church. There are souvenir shops and a couple places to grab coffee, ice cream, or something to eat.
DON’T … forget to bring your good camera
Make sure you find your way to the outside behind the shops and you will find THE BEST views of the city! OMG you will not believe how photographic this town is! If you’re looking to take some Instagram-worthy pics, this is definitely the place to go!
DO … take Cable car up to Parque Arvi
It seems that everywhere we went in Colombia we ended up on top of a mountain. I had many opportunities to overcome my fear of heights HA! But I must say that the views are tremendous and it was worth every trek UP!
It was getting late in the day and even though it was closing soon we decided to take the cable car up to Parque Arvi which is both an ecological nature preserve and pre-Hispanic archeological site on the eastern slopes of Aburrá Valley in the northeast area of Medellín.
The cost to take the cable car from the metro to Santo Domingo was included in the metro ticket but there we paid 4600 COP ($1.50US) per person for a 10-minute ride up to the park which is a very large, 4352 acres in fact, ecological park deep in the woods on top of the eastern mountains of Medellin where you can hike all around. It was a pretty amazing ride over the tall pine and eucalyptus trees in this forest.
When we got to the park entrance we had a relaxing time exploring the beautiful surroundings. There are some displays with information about Parque Arvi there and some shops and a restaurant as well as some comfortable seating scattered all around.
We ordered some refreshments at the cafe and just enjoyed our surroundings and relaxed for a while before heading down to Santo Domingo.
I highly recommend a trip up in the cable car in Medellin to Parque Arvi. Whether or not you hike the trails in the park or not – trust me you will be rewarded with some of the best views of the city! And if you’re able, time it so that you get the sunset on your way down!
DON’T … expect for anyone to speak English
As a matter of fact, everywhere you travel in Colombia you will be hard-pressed to find English-speaking people. You will be able to find some tour guides that will speak English but not here in Parque Arvi. And as a general rule the local people do not speak English at all.
DO … stop in Santo Domingo
Since it’s on the way down from Parque Arvi Santo Domingo is a great place to stop, especially if you’re looking for some local interaction and community engagement in your travels. Once known to be one of the most violent neighborhoods in Comuna Popular it has turned over a new leaf in its progressing atmosphere and urban improvement initiatives.
We enjoyed walking the streets of Santo Domingo. Again, we felt completely safe here. And it was really nice to see how the locals live.
DON’T … be afraid to eat on the streets
We had absolutely no worries about eating on the streets anywhere in Colombia. The food is yummy and safe to eat! Here in Santo Domingo you can eat on the streets for much cheaper than in the city. We ordered a local plato (plate) of pollo (chicken) with all the trimmings for a mere 5000 COP ($1.75 US). It was yummy and more than enough for the two of us :: we even had some leftovers to feed a local street dog.
DO … splurge at San Carbon Restaurant
Before leaving Medellin we chose on our final night to enjoy dinner at a nice restaurant located right up the street and walking distance from our hotel. Known for their steaks, the food was delicious, the atmosphere indeed was “fancy” and there was live jazz music which we also really enjoyed. It was a great way for us to end our amazing time in Medellin.
DON’T … expect to pay local prices
Prices at San Carbon are higher than the average restaurant in Medellin, or for Colombia in general, but if you’re looking to have a nice dinner this is the place to go. Excellent food and atmosphere!
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Medellin was one of the biggest surprises on my travels to Colombia. Not only was I intimidated by all the hype about it not being a safe place to travel but this amazing city blew me away and made me a believer in all things good about in the world.
If there is one thing that I hope you gleaned from this post is that you can safely and happily travel to this city and have the most amazing time of your life here. I do hope you will follow my lead and come support all the wonderful things Medellin has been doing and continues doing to transform a bad story into a good one. Because that is exactly what is happening in this place. How blessed I feel for having had the opportunity to experience it.
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