So this trip to The Bahamas isn’t quite what I had expected it to be. I figured we would spend the entire time here on a beach + in the water. That’s what we planned on. That is what I was looking forward to doing.
Due to delayed flights we arrived in Nassau late on Day One. We were exhausted + looking forward to just getting into a nice hot shower + getting out of the clothes we’d traveled in all day. Roydio had booked us a room at a Guest House that got great ratings online. But when we arrived what we found was an old hostel in a dark alley + no more than a very small room with a shared bathroom.
We unpacked + got ready to shower. But there was someone in the bathroom so we ended up just getting into our jammies + went to bed.
I don’t consider myself a diva by any means but this certainly wasn’t my idea of good accommodations – especially since this trip was a surprise for my birthday. HA! In the middle of the night I got up to use the bathroom + someone was in it. I sat + waited a very long time. I couldn’t help but think to myself, “this is going to be a long week in The Bahamas.”
It rained on Day Two + Three which kept us from laying out on the beach like I’d planned. But you know the old saying: if life hands you lemons, make lemonade! And that’s exactly what we did. We took our rental car out around the island + went out in search of:
My Favorite Things About The Bahamas:
#1 :: Local hangouts and beautiful people
Our favorite local hangout is Potter’s Cay located under the eastern bridge. You won’t find many tourists there unless you’re like me who has gone out of her way to find this hidden gem. What you will find is locals hanging out to eat, drink + play dominoes. And a place the local fisherman bring their catches to prepare them for the market + restaurants.
The day I was there we ate at McKenzie’s, one of the stands that overlook the water. We ate our lunch while watching sea gulls swoop down to eat the leftover fish + conch that was tossed into the water. We met a cute little couple + chatted with them for a while before discovering that they too found Potter’s Cay by happenstance + it is now also one of their favorite places to visit.
After lunch we strolled across to where they were de-shelling the conch + cleaning the fish. The guys were really accommodating as I asked questions about what they were doing. And that was when I heard two guys heavily into a debate. I continued to film through the debate. It was awesome to witness such an unexpected incident.
A little further down some locals were playing a game of dominos, something they probably do on a daily basis. Running into scenes such as this to me is the epitome of finding local gems + why I love it so much. You happen upon real people enjoying daily life in their local environment. I was so happy to find them.
#2 :: Talented local artisans
Finding local artisans wherever I travel is always a very personal treasure for me + my heart just goes out to them. Let me explain.
For the last twelve years Roydio + I have been actively involved in helping survivors in Indonesia rebuild their lives after having lost everything + everyone they held dear in the 2004 Tsunami. A year after that horrific disaster that took over 285,000 lives we started a training program for making handmade handbags + accessories, an art form originating from the local area in Banda Aceh, Sumatra, Indonesia. We named our company Laga Designs International, Inc. (laga/k means “beautiful” in the Acehnese language). We provided survivors with income + education + gave them new-found skills with which they could feed + house their families. All of the net profits go back to the artisans. We don’t take any salary to promote their goods.
Read more about what we do through Laga Handbags.
Just like in Aceh, these artisans depend on their skills making their handmade collectibles in order to provide for themselves + their families. The Straw Market is a great place to shop for souvenirs + you will be helping support their local economy as well. Bright + colorful are both the wares they sell + the artisans themselves. They are friendly, accommodating (bargain with them, they love it!) + really joyful – you will enjoy interacting with the Bahamian people. And oh how they love to laugh!
Plaiting, braiding + weaving are skills they’ve utilized here for decades to make straw baskets + such. But due to the growing tourism industry they have been able to use their skills to also make these wonderful collectibles + souvenirs. The artisans at The Straw Market offer handmade products ranging from straw work + wood + leather carvings to hand-painted artworks to local delicacies + treats all at very affordable prices.
I would have loved to capture many of these lovely people on film but most were too shy + preferred I didn’t. I have to respect that. But there was this one sweet lady that let me film her. What a sweetheart she was. I ended up buying a couple of her handmade baskets which really made her day.
It was just really awesome to talk with these beautiful people + find out more about their lives in The Bahamas. Their joy was contagious.
The Straw Market is open everyday from 8am to 8pm.
Local Wall Art
From what I have come to understand Nassau seems to have had a boost in street art, murals, + public art as of late.
Areas boasting public murals are instantly more pleasant, more inviting, more vibrant + ultimately feel like genuine ‘Bahamian’ spaces to be in simply because of the sense of community they engender + the artistic freedom associated with works in this format. They generally aren’t tourist centered images, they’re made by + for the people.
Bahamian Torcedor
I was thrilled to witness a local Torcedor (cigar roller) in his element on Bay Street while I was strolling by. He’s not always here but I was lucky this time. Hand rolling cigars is a real art, they even offer lessons on it. He makes it look so easy, doesn’t he?
#3 :: The most delicious Bahamian food
All of the Bahamian food I’ve had has been so very flavorful. And what I love best is that all of it is served by people who really enjoy life. Their smiles + laughter are infectious. Their zest for life is witnessed in the way they live every day. I so enjoy being around the Bahamian people. And oh the food…
Lobster + crab + shrimp are grilled to perfection.
Conch fritters + plantains are fried in a delicate batter.
Macaroni pie is baked using amazing Bahamian spices + jalapeños.
I would recommend any of the following dining spots:
Oh Andros at Arawak Cay, wonderful Bahamian food
McKenzie’s at Potter’s Cay, best place with the best view
Bimini Road in Marina Village, a little fancier restaurant + the food is great
Bahamian Cookin’ on Market Street, local down home just like the name implies
VIP Chinese on Bay Street, the only Chinese restaurant we found
Da Fish Fry in Arawak Cay, very popular place with the tourists
Daiquiri Shack in Cable Beach, fun place – love their daiquiris
Main Street Ice Cream Parlor on Bay Street, nice place to chill + people watch
Skars on Bay Street, local business men meet here on Monday mornings
And then there’s Gregory’s on George Street
There aren’t many restaurants open early in the morning so we walked over to Gregory’s around the corner several mornings which became our “breakfast spot” so I wanted to make sure to include it.
They serve what appears to be more American-style food + normally when we’re in another country we stick with the local food. But here our choices were pretty limited without driving to the other side of town. Luckily for us Gregory’s serves even their American items with a Bahamian twist, using local spices + ingredients which are so very delicious.
#4 :: The Bahamian history + culture
Fort Fincastle
Located on Bennet’s Hill, Fort Fincastle is built in the shape of a paddle steamer + overlooks the Queen’s Staircase. It mounted seven cannons + served as a lighthouse until 1817. This fort was built to protect Nassau Harbor + New Providence from approaching pirates.
It is easily accessible from downtown. As a matter of fact we walked to Fort Fincastle + it was a really beautiful walk indeed.
Parliament Square
The Bahamas were the site of Christopher Columbus’ first landfall in the New World in 1492 + became a British crown colony in 1718. They achieved self-governance in 1964 + became a fully independent nation in 1973.
Parliament Square is where everything happens. These pink colored government buildings are examples of the colonial architecture of old Nassau. The building to the right in the square is the House of Assembly where parliamentary meetings are held.
The Senate meets upstairs in the center Senate building + the building to the left houses the office of the Leader of the Opposition. In front of the Senate building stands Queen Victoria’s Statue which was erected in 1905.
Located at the back of the Senate building is where the Supreme Court has been occupying since 1921. Quarterly sessions of the Bahamas Superior Court + sessions of The Court of Appeal sit here. Judges + lawyers are dressed in traditional British wigs and robes.
We were there in January 2017, just three months prior to The Bahamas proclamation to dissolve the Old Parliament + convening of the New.
As we drove down Bay Street street we witnessed an actual Parliamentary Procession attended by all of the prominent government officials, apparently held prior to the general election.
It was pretty amazing to see some in their black robes + wigs (as I mentioned before these are lawyers + judges), others in red robes or white military uniforms. It would have been awesome to have been able to identify some of those officials but it was one of those things we just happened upon, having no prior knowledge of the event. What a blessing to have witnessed it though. Check out this video I was able to capture!
Queen’s Staircase
The Queen’s Staircase, commonly referred to as the 66 steps, is a major Bahamian landmark located in the Fort Fincastle Historic Complex. It was completed of solid limestone rock by slaves in 1794 + provided a direct route from Fort Fincastle to Nassau City. These steps were later named in honour of Queen Victoria who reigned in Britain from 1837 to 1901.
There are only 65 steps visible because the pathway that leads to the steps was eventually paved so the bottom step is buried under asphalt. What a beautiful spot in history + it just so happens to be a great photo op spot as well.
#5 :: Paradise Island
Atlantis
On our first full day in Nassau we decided to drive across the eastern bridge to Paradise Island to see Atlantis where the PokerStars Caribbean Adventure [PCA] was being held.
I love Texas Hold ‘Em so we checked out the facilities + ran into our friend, the 2012 Poker Player of the Year Joe Serock. It was really cool to see him.
We also visited the Marine Habitat at Atlantis which was crazy awesome. This extensive exhibit had several lagoons, caves + coral formations in addition to underwater ruins in the aquarium that contained sharks, rays, barracuda, piranha, eels + even endangered alligator gar in over eight million gallons of water. We only had time to cover just the caves + aquarium but I would say it’s definitely worth seeing.
From what I read afterwards you can only get a pass for seeing this exhibit with proof you are either a guest at Atlantis or are a Bahamian resident. Apparently we must have entered from the wrong side + were able to just walk right in.
PCA Tournament
I saved this story for the end of my post because it has such a dramatic ending.
Here we are in Atlantis, the most exciting place to play a poker tournament IMO. And the day before the tournament Roydio reveals to me that he signed me up to play in it. Are you kidding me? I’m going to play in the PCA? I was beside myself. Never did I think I’d ever really play in a tournament of this magnitude. It was so exciting to think I’d be playing with the likes of poker greats Scotty Nyugen, Vanessa Selbst, Daniel Negreanu + Joe Serock to name only a few. Best birthday surprise ever.
On the first day of the tournament Roydio brings me to my table, gives me a kiss for good luck + tells me he’ll be back later to check in on me. Poker can take a very long time, hours if you’re good + get lucky enough to win a bunch of hands.
**WARNING**
And here comes my poker personality for those who haven’t seen it. If you’re a Texas Hold ‘Em lover like me this will be a great story. For those who don’t it’s still a great story because it has a real surprise ending. So please bear with me.
All is going great. I feet good. I am dealt a few good hands. I actually win the first two hands I play + I even hear the guy next to me whisper to his neighbor about me “watch out for this one.”
For the next maybe 20 minutes I’m doing a lot of folding. Then I am dealt the best hand you can get in Texas Hold ‘Em: two Aces, clubs + spades. Pocket aces. How exciting to be dealt this hand after playing just 20 minutes! Betting ensues + when it is my turn to bet I raise to match the pot. Everyone goes out except for one guy sitting directly across from me. Let’s just call him Bill.
Then the flop comes (dealer lays three cards open on the table). Ace of hearts, Ten of hearts + Jack of hearts, giving me Trips. 3 Aces. One of the best hands you can have at the flop. I knew that if Bill had hearts in his hand he could possibly have a flush which would beat my 3 Aces. So I check. And Bill checks behind me. Hmmm… maybe he doesn’t have a flush because he surely would have raised. OK. It was looking good for me.
Then the turn comes (the dealer lays one more card open on the table). Ace of diamonds. I had 4 Aces! Second to the best hand you can get in poker. Without too much hesitation I just go All In because who can beat 4 Aces? It even beats a flush if he had one. But Bill calls my All In! Maybe he has a full house? But 4 Aces still beats a full house.
I turn over my cards to reveal I have the 4 Aces. I’m feeling great because I’m gonna double up. Everyone at the table gasps. Yea. That’s when it all goes downhill for me. Bill turns over his cards, slowly, to reveal a King of hearts + Queen of hearts. He has a Royal Flush… the only hand that beats 4 Aces. And he had gotten it on the flop! He totally slow-played me… he reeled me in… There is no hand that could have beaten him from the very beginning of the hand.
There is a gasp at the table from everyone there. I sit in disbelief. Shock, really. I go All In with 4 Aces + get beat by a Royal Flush. When does that happen? I’ve never seen it happen. Neither had anyone else at the table. Even the dealer’s jaw dropped.
Bill softly spoke up, “Wow, I’m so sorry. I really feel bad that I beat you like that. I just got reaaaaalllly lucky.” I lean over to shake his hand.
As I turn to leave, one by one each player at the table gets up to give me a hug + to tell me what a bad beat (bad way to lose) that was + that I was a great player. Then the table monitor comes over to see what was causing such a big commotion + when he realizes what had happened he gasps + says, “worst bad beat anyone could get. If you had gotten this in a regular poker game the casino would have paid you $250,000 on the spot. This never happens!”
I only played for half an hour + I was already out. I was so disappointed. I go into the lobby to wait for Roydio to come back. About 15 minutes goes by + there he comes walking down the hall towards me. He was surprised to see me sitting there. When I looked at him I could feel tears welling up in my eyes. And I just let it all out when he stretched his arms out to me. “What happened?” I did that ugly cry that you pray you won’t ever do. Thank goodness I was able to hold it in until now. Thank goodness there was no one around to see it. Everyone was still playing in the tournament hall.
So that’s the end of my story of Atlantis. What a bum ending that really just took the wind out of me. From here on out it would just make a great story. And I wouldn’t play poker again for a long time.
It took me some time to get over the let down. We walked around for a long time. And then we got back into the car, back across the Sir Sydney Poitier Bridge to Marina Village where we parked + found a fun place to eat called Bimini Road.
We ate Bahamian-style food + drank Bahamian Sands beer, well Roydio did, + I really enjoyed the atmosphere. We ate pretty much in silence but it was cathartic for me to be surrounded by all the music + lights + great food. By the time we drove back to our room I was back to normal. Still bummed but I just chalked it up to experience. After all I had a great opportunity to play poker in Atlantis. Happy birthday to me!
Although not what I expected, my time in Nassau turned out to be pretty special. After all, I got to meet + hangout with some beautiful Bahamian people at Potter’s Cay, appreciate the local artisans at The Straw Market, enjoy amazing Bahamian food all over the island, witness the local culture + learn more about Nassau’s history + play poker on Paradise Island at Atlantis.
What did you like best about my time in The Bahamas?
3 comments
Wow!! I have to say, Louise….your blog just draws me right in!! I want to go all these places With You!! And I love that you surrendered to serendipity!! What a delightful adventure!! Thank you for sharing!!!
Thank you so much, Rita! You are welcome to join any time! <3
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