This post is the third in my five-part series on Colombia, South America.
Let me repeat :: This will NOT be your typical travel blog post about Colombia but more about my adventures. As a matter of fact it is more something you may read in a book or something. Don’t encourage me about that though HA!
For this portion of our adventures in Colombia Roydio planned what was supposed to be a romantic time at the beach. So far we had pretty much flown from one place to the other and we kinda missed driving as we do in so many of our other travel adventures. So we rented a car in Cartagena (I’ll cover our time in this magnificent place in a later post in this series).
We set out to what we had read was an undiscovered gem of a coastal location south of Cartagena, “a peaceful oasis that cultivates the idea of sustainable travel.” And we were really looking forward to it getting away from the hustle and bustle.
The beginning of our drive was a breeze. The sky was a little overcast but perfect for driving because it wasn’t too hot. The landscape was amazing. Have I told you how much I love the landscape of Colombia? We were so happy we chose to drive this portion of our trip.
And then the rain came.
It didn’t just come, it literally attacked us. The wind and rain pelted our windshield and it became difficult to see. And wouldn’t you know it Roydio had to use the facilities right when it started. It seemed like hours before it let up. And he patiently waited until the rain let up a bit before getting back in the car.
We got back on the road and after driving a few miles the rain finally stopped. And we could see in the far distance that the clouds were giving way to blue skies. When we got off the main highway we took the turn off and proceeded on our leisurely drive to the beautiful Colombia beaches we’d heard so much about. This is where our adventures continued.
So most of the roads off the beaten path in Colombia are made of dirt and rocks. We had experienced that in Armenia and again in Medellin but because we weren’t doing the driving I didn’t take much notice of it. We took it slow and tried to enjoy the ride.
We arrived in a small town called San Onofre. We took a turn where the road split. And we noticed that there were no cars on this road, only a motorcycle or two. (I may or may not have mentioned that I am married to Indiana Jones #2 but I have to keep it real) So Roydio went into “Colombia adventures mode,” driving slowly because the rain left huge holes in the muddy road that were difficult to navigate. Now see at this point my anxiety reared its ugly head. I couldn’t help thinking that now would NOT be a good time for a flat tire. Not that there would ever be a good time mind you. But the rocks on the road were really big and we were in a rental car with nary a soul in sight. Eek!
After what seemed like hours we finally saw life on this road, a motorcyclist. It gave us hope that we were nearing our destination. Then we saw another motorcycle. But still not a single car. Ours was the only car. When we finally arrived in what appeared to be a small town we slowly made our way down the road over bumps and into ditches.
People stopped to stare at us as we bumbled by. At the end of the road a barefoot man with a big smile came over to our car and directed us into a “parking lot” which was just a plot of grass under a tree, after which he insisted on carrying our two suitcases about 200 yards down the street and around the corner until we reached a beach with white sand. We walked about 100 yards….
…and there it was :: Dos Aguas Lodge.
This beautiful undiscovered paradise on a pristine white sand beach. This “peaceful oasis that cultivates the idea of sustainable travel” was indeed beautiful, indeed undiscovered and I can see why!
And it was indeed sustainable. No potable or hot water, mosquito nets over the beds and to say it was hot is an understatement. The ceiling fan didn’t do much more than move the hot air around. The mattress was hard (I love a hard mattress but this was H A R D). There was a hammock hanging in our room and a night stand by the bed.
The owner and staff were super friendly and actually spoke English so that was really nice, especially in Colombia where very few do. Once we checked in and dropped our bags off in our room we came out to have lunch in the little hut of a restaurant on the beach next door. After the adventure we had getting there we were really hungry!
After lunch we grabbed an available chair and took a nice long rest.
Well actually that is pretty much where I stayed, on the beach, for the next two days in Rincon del Mar. Roydio did get into the water but I was content to just lay out in the sun and relax after the craziness that had ensued getting here.
If you are a backpacker, used to roughing it and looking for a beautiful place to relax for a few days you will enjoy this paradise and beautiful beach with clear water in front and amazing mangroves in back. And they do serve a good breakfast, too.
If you are not used to carrying a pack on your back and getting around on a motorcycle I’d say you might want to get there by boat. That’s really what we should have done.
I don’t consider myself a diva but I’ve gotta keep it real. I really didn’t sleep much because the bed was uncomfortably hard and it was so hot all during the night. I got up several times to wet a towel for my face to get a little relief. And I got bit by mosquitos and bugs. A lot. In spite of the net. Ugh. And there was a couple with a baby in the next room who kept crying (why do people bring babies to a place like this?). It’s really a shame because it is such a beautiful place.
I really should have joined in on the night boat tour to see the glowing plankton (that is my one regret) but I really was content to just spend all day sitting in a beach chair or in a hammock relaxing and drinking my limonada de cocos. That part was so great. And I may have taken a few naps out there as well…
Then came the time for us to leave and make the trek back to the main road from Rincon del Mar. If it was bad coming in believe it or not it was worse going out. It had rained again the night before.
The new rain made the roads even worse (if that was even possible to imagine). OMG I tried not to think too much but I definitely had several bouts of anxiety as we bumbled our way out of there.
I kept telling Roydio not to stop because if there’s one thing I know :: you never stop on a muddy road for fear of getting stuck.
Well, sure enough :: it happened! We got stuck in the mud and our wheels just kept spinning and there was no way out.
Out of nowhere appeared a man in the road in front of us who walked over and began trying to push our car out of the mud. After several attempts and to no avail he signaled for us to wait. When he returned he had a shovel in his hand and began digging out the mud from underneath our tire. The ditch we had gotten into was so big it seemed to just get worse.
Then again out of nowhere another guy on a motorcycle appeared. Between the two of them and a shovel and their brute strength lifting up the left side of our car as we revved our engine several more times, they were able to get us free. So very thankful, we gave them 20,000 COP for their help. When we were on our way again we started thinking. Where did they come from? And where in the world did they get a shovel? I looked back and they were gone. Hmmmm, do you believe in angels?
Then as we slowly made our way much further down the road and just as we thought we were in the clear we got stuck a second time. There was a truck coming our way (a truck? on this crazy road?) and we thought maybe he would offer to help us as well. Yea, no. The driver stopped, got out of his truck and just stood at the side of the road and watched us struggle. It was obvious that he couldn’t get through until we moved so I guess he chose to use this time to take a little break. Indiana Jones #2 went into his “Colombia adventures mode” again and after about 10 minutes of rocking the car back and forth, back and forth, he finally got us out and we were again on our way. The Lord was with us for sure on this trek!
Now it was time for us to make it to the second destination on the beach :: the Playa Manglares resort in Isla Baru. As we were making our way there I told Roydio there was no way I was going to go through that again and if the next place had the same kind of roads we should just keep driving and find something else. Well, lucky for us, Playa Manglares was right off a good road and the place was wonderful.
We had air conditioning and even though there was no hot water it was warm and comfortable enough to take great showers. Whew! And no mosquitos. Yay!
At the Playa Manglares resort they serve you breakfast, lunch and dinner because there is not really anywhere you can walk to for meals. It’s located on another beautiful beach (be sure to wear water shoes, though). The owner and her family are lovely as are the rest of the staff. And it is so peaceful and beautiful.
At dinner the first night we met a lovely couple from London with whom we decided to take a boat tour to the Rosario Islands. The following day we had perfect weather. No rain clouds anywhere in sight. It was a truly lovely day with wonderful company.
Our tour guides couldn’t have been older than 17 but they were adorable. The boys spoke only Spanish so this gave us a good opportunity for us to learn more! We went through mangroves and through a group of islands, one where the boys lived. He even pointed out his madre and she waved as we went by.
We arrived at Bendita Beach where we enjoyed a few hours in the sand and water. And on our way back we stopped for lunch on one of the islands.
Where in the World is Louise? Rosario Islands :: one of the private islands for rent
Interesting Fact :: Several of the Rosario Islands are available for rent. For example, Isla Matamba can be rented for approximately $1300 per night and sleeps 16 (divided by 8 couples that only comes to $162 per night! For an entire island to yourselves!). Available on the island is a restaurant (3 meals are included), bar, jacuzzi, mini golf course, tennis court and various water sport activities.
Here are some more pics of our time on the water ::
Where in the World is Louise? Rosario Islands :: boat tour
Click here to see for yourself what you can do in Cartagena and the Rosario Islands! You won’t regret going. But just take a boat there. Trust me. Just do it.
The two days we spent in the Playa Manglares resort and the Rosario Islands were amazing but it went by much too quickly. If you drive a little further down the road in Isla Baru there are more touristy resort options such as Playa Blanca but I’m really glad we opted for a quieter location.
So there you have it :: our adventures to the beaches in Colombia. Although we would have done things differently had we realized what we were in for, it makes for a great story. And the beaches really were gorgeous.
What do you think of our Colombia adventures to its beautiful beaches? Would you have gone for the adventure or would you have chosen the easier way? HA! Either way I think you would enjoy it there.
TIP :: Do your research, people! You can’t always believe everything you read so make sure you read between the lines to assure that you will have the best experience possible!
Read More ::
Bangkok :: How to See it in 3 Days
Medellin :: 10 Do’s and Don’ts You Must Know
Top 5 Beaches in Curacao :: My Picks
Although this post was more of an adventure article rather than an actual travel post I hope I’ve given you enough reason to explore the beaches of Colombia. Should I be blessed with the opportunity to return I’d love to explore the other islands and perhaps even stay a few days in Rosario. Definitely on my bucket list would be to experience the bioluminescent plankton tour on Isla Grande. I could really kick myself for not going when I had the opportunity! But we’ll just have to come back!!
I do hope you enjoyed this post on my Colombia adventures and that one day you will come out to create your own!
4 comments
Wow. Just wow!
Thank you! It’s really been an adventure!
Hi, can I ask you in which period you travelled to Rincon ? thanks a lot
We drove from Cartagena to Rincon del Mar in March 2019, it was quite an adventure! We never knew that nobody goes there by car, we were the only tourists that got there by car. On the way back, we got stuck in the mud twice, miraculously 2 young men helped us get out, as of today, we still think that God sent those 2 angels because there was nobody in sight where we were.