Lisbon :: One of My Very Favorite Cities in Europe

Lisbon :: my very first time in Portugal. I was overjoyed to find that this is one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited! It just so happens that my great grandmother was a Pereira and hailed from Portugal. Although I don’t know much about my Portuguese heritage I was really excited to visit.

Lisbon was actually a two-day cruise stop for me but upon stepping foot in what immediately felt like home I decided to walk everywhere so that I wouldn’t miss a thing of the wonderful details that make Lisbon truly special. I was sure that my next visit I would want to see all of the well-known attractions but this time I just wanted to get to know the city like a local. And boy did I get my exercise! They don’t call this The City of Seven Hills for no reason!

Tip :: make sure to wear good walking shoes!

When you’re first getting to know Lisbon, it helps to think of the city as a collection of neighborhoods. From one to the other you will soon notice that each has its own personality. These were two days that I absolutely adored doing nothing but wandering.

I’m just going to touch on each neighborhood I was able to visit and hopefully show you a different perspective on traveling and exactly how special a city this is ::

Lisbon Old Town Alfama

Old Town Alfama’s labyrinth of streets are best explored by simply getting lost in it because around every corner or steep climb is a delightful tiny plaza, unique shop, funky café or wonderful viewpoint.

Our entire time in Alfama we spent climbing cobbled streets or descending staircases. Be aware if you have mobility problems :: it may behoove you to take some form of transportation throughout the city. There are several types available :: tram, bus or metro. You can also hail a tuk-tuk to make the trek easier or call an Uber which is also readily available here. But if you’re able I highly recommend walking. Everywhere. Because you don’t want to miss a thing!

Incorporated in this charming district are several neighborhoods so I’ll just break down the ones I visited for you here ::

Castelo

I actually took this photo from Graca to capture Castelo de Jorge. I did walk around the area but didn’t actually take a tour of the castle because I knew I just wouldn’t have time to do much else if I did. This is on my looooong list of things I want to do on my next visit.

Castelo is one of the most traditional neighborhoods in Lisbon featuring centuries of history as well as magnificent views over the city and River Tagus. Stunning views :: nothing less. And although the old historic influence abounds here the neighborhood is also full of reenergized streets as you can see evidence of restoration and repurposing throughout. They even have two elevators providing access to this hilltop from other neighborhoods.

Encarnacao

I spent most of my time in Encarnacao in the evening strolling the streets and alleyways. And of course taking photographs of everything! Encarnacao means “incarnation” and, as is so evident throughout Lisbon and its churches, I truly felt Christ’s light and life here in this place. And it was filled with wonderful ambiance, something I took away with me.

We had dinner at a charming and popular little seafood restaurant called Marisqueira M :: the food was spectacular. Click here for the TripAdvisor reviews.

And although this restaurant is known for its seafood Roydio had a hankering for steak so that is what he opted for. And he definitely cleaned his plate.

As for me, I had a traditional seafood dish with rice and clams and shrimp that I don’t even remember the name of. But what I certainly do remember is that the taste was unlike anything I’d had before and it was absolutely to die for!

Graca

Graca is a really cool neighborhood filled to the rim with lots of old world charm and a nostalgic slice of local life. I’m a sucker for textures and windows and doors and balconies, and Lisbon provides me with endless opportunities to enjoy everything I love.

A young population I’ve been told has moved into the Graca area having had an impact in recent years with cool street art and some new restaurants.

Several paths I climbed ended with a great viewpoint (which is so typical of Lisbon and one of the things I love so much about this city) such as this one called Largo da Graca which is also known as the Sophia Andresen viewpoint. This peaceful, tree shaded plaza is positioned in front of the Graca Church and provides wonderful views over the castle and central Lisbon. There is a wonderful open air cafe which is an ideal place to relax after climbing all the hills of Alfama. And that’s exactly what Roydio and I did. We grabbed something to drink and stood in awe of this beautiful sight.

Rua da Madalena

Another of the Alfama District neighborhoods, we walked Rua da Madalena to get from one area to the other. Goes to show that an otherwise nondescript yet uber charming area with all the various doors and windows I just love so much opens up your eyes to the wonder that is this grand city of Lisbon. I could seriously wander up and down the streets here and enjoy the atmosphere for hours on end. When I return I’ll have to stay longer so I could do more of just that.

It was here in Madalena from which we decided to take the #28 tram to Graca and Santa Justa. Good or bad decision. We waited for that famous tram. 15 minutes. 30 minutes 45 minutes. An hour. Ask if it’s worth the wait? Well, I’m glad we did it because it’s just something you have to do in Lisbon but I don’t think I’d wait again. Next time I’d catch it at a less popular spot and risk not getting on right away! Roydio was cool about me just wandering off taking photos of the walls and the streets and the buildings surrounding us. For me it was an opportunity just “waiting” to happen… (see what I did there?) HA!

If you are interested in covering the most popular areas of Lisbon in a relatively short amount of time I highly recommend taking a guided walking tour so that they can point out the more sought after attractions Lisbon has to offer. The next time I visit (and there will certainly be a next time) that is exactly what I will do.

Check out this private walking tour that comes highly recommended!

Museo do Design e do Moda [MUDE] Lisbon

The MUDE in Lisbon celebrates design and fashion with a collection of approximately 2500 pieces belonging to the art collector and architect Francisco Capelo. Pretty impressive buildings which also include a cafe and bookshop. The Portuguese really love their arches, don’t they? And so do I!

Praca do Comercio

The largest of Lisbon’s plazas and located near the beautiful shoreline of the River Tagus, Placa do Comercio (Commercial Square) was traditionally known as a place where traders could be found selling their wares from around the world, the success of which consequently contributed largely to the city’s wealth and popularity.

Each square in Lisbon seems to feature monuments and fountains dedicated to the people who made it what it is :: a thriving robust city. Marble tiles, lots of places to wander, grandiose buildings and endless stories about its rich history.

Praca de Imperio

The Garden of the Empire Square is across from Jeronimos Monastery (which I will go over a little later) where you can enjoy an impressive fountain and beautifully manicured gardens and ponds.

Even the ducks that live there are happy in their home.

Rossio Square

Truly one of the liveliest of squares in the city of Lisbon and officially called Praca de D. Pedro IV, I spent some time here just hanging out drinking coffee and watching people go by. In the center of Rossio Square is a monument made of marble topped with a statue of Dom Pedro IV (after whom this square is named) with symbols that stand for Justice, Wisdom, Strength and Moderation :: qualities attributed to the man.

Something that doesn’t go unnoticed is that although this square is very large you will not see concrete slabs anywhere. Look down and you will find beautiful cobbled designs under your feet throughout the city. In every square, in every street. And you know each stone had to be hand-laid. How long must it have taken to lay? It’s mesmerizing to think about. I literally appreciated every step I took for miles and miles on end.

There are also two beautiful fountains here. Flanking the square are Rossio Station and Dona Maria National Theatre. When I return to Lisbon I really want to try and catch a show at the theatre.

Rossio Station

It is from Rossio Station from which we took the train to Sintra (more about that later). I expected this beautiful building to be some sort of famous museum or opera house or something. But nope :: it’s just a train station! Apparently it was built at a time when train stations were seen as “temples of technology.” It certainly is one of the most beautiful of architectural complexes I’ve seen housing a rail terminal.

I just had to take a close up of the entrance of this gorgeous building. It’s an entrance like I’ve never seen before.

Santa Justa Iron Lift

Santa Justa is home to the famous Santa Justa Lift, the elevator that takes you from Baixa to Barrio Alto. It would be the fastest way to get there if it wasn’t for the ridiculously long lines in which you have to wait in order to get up there. But it definitely is one of Lisbon’s top attractions. From the top of the elevator you have one of many stunning views of the city :: some say it’s the best in all of Lisbon.

Santa Maria de Belem

The first of Lisbon’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites Torre de Belem was erected in 1514 to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s expedition to India which opened a sea route from Europe to the East. I remember reading about and being fascinated by the early explorers and Vasco da Gama was one that stood out to me. And that was even well before I came to understand that I had family ties to Portugal.

While I made it a point in having a traditional custard cup at the well-known ::

Pasteis de Belem

Pastéis de Belém follows an ancient secret recipe developed in 1837. They still make this traditional dessert by hand using traditional methods which is probably why it is so popular with the locals as well as tourists. This is something that just has to be experienced when at the Torre de Belem in Lisbon because if you don’t, have you really been to Lisbon?

Check out this adorable place and make sure you visit Pasteis de Belem when you are in Lisbon!

Sao Lourenco

Sao Lourenco is yet another one of the neighborhoods I aimlessly wandered through as I took in everything that is beautiful about Lisbon. I climbed up the hills to enjoy glorious views, I stopped to enjoy the local people as they bustled by in their daily routines of going to the market or cleaning their windows or sweeping their front steps. Everything about Sao Lourenco is beckoning me back to this beautiful town.

Sintra :: Santa Maria e Sao Miguel

On the day we wanted to take a trip out to Sintra, a picturesque town in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains and known for its hilltop 19th-century Pena National Palace with its whimsical design and sweeping views, we got a very late start.

We took the train out of Rossio Station which took about an hour and then had to find and catch a bus to Sintra from there. We were met with a ridiculous amount of traffic going up the hill on a narrow street in that great big bus. HA! It was a little nerve-wracking because we needed to be back by a certain time. Once we arrived at Sintra we realized we wouldn’t have enough time to go in and really take our time. So we opted to forego the tour and just wandered around the adorable town for a while and enjoyed the serenity up there.

We stopped for coffee in a little bakery along the side of the road called Tirol Pastelaria which actually turned out to be a really nice and relaxing time. It is really beautiful up there. Not too many people were on the street because most had made their way into Sintra National Palace so we enjoyed the peace and quiet.

After our little break we walked around a little more and began working our way back down the hill. It would have taken us forever and a day to walk all the way back down so we just got onto the bus again at one of the stops along the way. Walking sure is a great way to see the nitty gritty of the city! Once back down the hill it was just a matter of catching the train back into Lisbon. Whew! It was a whirlwind but we made it!

Tip :: Make sure you start early in the day and allow a full day for this trip out to Sintra. There is much more to see than just the Palace and you must also allow for enough time to get up there and back, keeping in mind the bus and train schedules.

Sao Nicolau

Every neighborhood in Lisbon has its own charm but Sao Nicolau is no different but what I found so appealing in this area is the people. It was filled with lots of great little street stands selling everything from food to flowers. Sao Nicolau gave me the feeling that I was home.

Lisbon Se Cathedral

Lisbon Cathedral, better known as Se de Lisboa, is the oldest and most important church in the city dating back to the twelfth century and has survived several natural disasters. Cloister ruins are available to tourists for the nominal fee of 3EU which is totally worth seeing.

Neighborhood surrounding Se Cathedral

I love how you can just walk around the city and find unique nooks and crannies such as this restaurant seating in unexpected places. They find ways to create charming “holes in the wall” (literally) which makes Lisbon so special. Fado clubs, quaint dining spots and picturesque staircases that open up to gorgeous views abound.

Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimos Monastery is the most impressive symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery. And it is also one of three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Lisbon, a 16th-century landmark tower on the Tagus River, built to honor the memory of Prince Henry the Navigator and to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for the success of Vasco Da Gama’s voyage to the East. Da Gama’s tomb lies inside the entrance of this monastery.

I spoke with an artist [in his very broken English] who has been drawing the monastery for many years. He shared that he has sold many of his drawings over the years but it is just a pastime for him and his life’s passion to draw here. What a joy it was to meet him although I never got his name. And according to him it is apparently not unusual to find several artists in this iconic place at any given time.

Special Mention :: The Tiles!

OMG wherever you walk in Lisbon you will find beautiful tile work on the walls and as I mentioned previously on the ground under your feet. I had to include images of some of these tiles which add wonderful color and dimension to the every day otherwise mundane buildings and streets :: a characteristic that makes Lisbon stand out from other cities in the world.

I had to include another close up of the cobblestones on the ground because I just find them so fascinating.

Next time I visit Lisbon ::

In just a couple of days it is impossible to experience the whole of Lisbon. This is a city about which I have to say :: even if I lived here a lifetime I would not have enough time to experience it all. So the next time I visit I’ve already decided that I will have to spend more time in these places :: Sintra National Palace [I’ve got to get an earlier start and try seeing it again!], Jeronimos Monastery and Lisbon Castle [visit the inside of both], National Theatre Dona Maria, Figueira Square and make it a point to go into one of the Fado clubs and listen to the music!

…AND I’ll have to eat Way. More. Food.

Lisbon was everything I’d hoped it would be. And more. This city is filled in abundance with all the things I love :: history, architecture, color, textures, unique doors and windows, cobbled streets… OMG I loved it all! The fact that some of my family heritage comes from this amazing place tops off my desire to learn more about it. And you can bet on it :: I’ll be back!

Have you been to Lisbon? Tell me what you loved best about it if you can narrow it down but feel free to expound … it would be great to get your perspective and suggestions for when I return!

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