Split :: When in Croatia Make Sure You Do This

On our cruise to Europe on Symphony of the Seas out of Barcelona we stopped over in Palma de Mallorca, La Spezia (Cinque Terre), Civitavecchia (Rome), Naples (Pompeii, Sorrento, Positano). We extended our European trip by flying to The Netherlands (finally saw the Keukenhof) with side trips to Budapest and Vienna, and finally Croatia. We had been to Dubrovnik on a previous trip and wanted to see a different part of the country so we decided to take a side trip to Split.

SPLIT on the island of Ciovo

We flew into Split from Vienna and spent a couple of days here :: another great European town with lots of history and charm. Being 17 centuries old and dating back to the time of Roman Emperor Diocletian who built his palace here, over the years his Palace grew to become a city.

Split has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 due not only to the Palace but all of the old Roman structures dating back to the Middle Ages that have been wonderfully preserved. Many residents built their own palaces in and around the main one in town. This is an example of one.

The architecture was to die for. Oh. Em. Gee. Everywhere I turned I saw a wonderful mix of Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque architecture. And Split’s Venetian heritage is also prominently noticeable. Walking through this medieval town felt as if I had been teleported back to the days of Shakespeare! This happens to be the northern gate to the main Palace (more on that later).

But Split is so much more than architectural scenery. It comes alive in its cultural film and theatre festivals, exhibitions, museums and other eclectic forms of entertainment. It is the home of nearly a dozen Olympic medal winners along with other sports medal winners which is quite a feat when you consider the relatively small size of this city which has only about 180,000 residents.

Lying on the Adriatic Sea, Split is the largest city in Dalmatia, the second largest in Croatia and has the second largest cargo harbor in the country as well as one of the largest passenger harbors on the Mediterranean. 

Speaking of Mediterranean, Split has much to offer its residents and tourists alike thanks to the wonderful year round climate. Winters are mild, springtime is amazing, summer heat can be diverted by a trip to the nearby islands such as Brac, Hvar or Solta, and autumn is when the water along the coast is at its best temperature.

“There is no place like Split” is a saying of the locals. And I can definitely see why. And the laid back small town atmosphere is so appealing. Their typical greeting is “Pomalo!” which means “take it easy!” How is that for laid back?

Let me take you on a tour to Split, Croatia so that you can get a better feel for this ancient city and give you lots of reasons to come for a visit!

Diocletian’s Palace

One of the most popular attractions in Split is the Palace of Diocletian which is considered one of the best preserved monuments of Roman architecture in the world. And let me tell you it is grand. It was built in approximately 300 AD the remains of which are included in the historic core of the city of Split and listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The builders and architects are not known. 

At each of the four corners of the Palace walls stand a large tower with doors (gates) on each of the four sides.

There happened to be some kind of event going on in the inner court of the Palace the day we visited, with music and speakers, but I snuck in to take a picture anyway. HA!

Amazing in-tact ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. So incredible to see.

Diocletian’s Palace :: Golden Gate (north main entrance)

The Roman name for the Golden Gate is “Porta Septemtrionalis” and were built in the shape of a rectangle with double doors. At the time the Palace was built in 305 this entrance could only be used by the Emperor and members of his family. The niches of Diocletian, Maximian, Galerius and Constantius Chlorus were used as decoration. In the 16th century and under the influence of Venice the name of the gates were changed to Porta Aurea or Golden Gates.

Diocletian’s Palace :: Silver Gate (east entrance)

Porta Orientalis is the Roman name for both the East (Silver) and West (Iron) gates and are more modest in its decorations and was closed from the Middle Ages until 1952 after which it was reconstructed. Octagonal towers remain on each side of the gate. Through this gate you can walk on the original ancient pavement. And in 2000 Pope John Paul II passed through this entrance on his way to Domnius Cathedral (where he later was said to have prayed).

Diocletian’s Palace :: Iron Gate (west entrance)

In the 11th century Church of Our Lady of the Belfry was built above the door dedicated to St. Theodor. The city clock there has 24 digits instead of the usual 12. 

Palaces around Diocletian’s Palace

From reading more about the area around the Diocletian Palace I found out that many prominent and distinguished citizens of the day built their own residences and palaces in and around the Diocletian Palace so everywhere I turned I found placards about these palaces, some remaining as residences or lodgings and some having been turned into shops or museums. It is so interesting to see the preserved courtyards, portals, staircases, loggias and windows.

If you are interested in reading more about these other palaces you can do so by clicking here.

Church of St. Martin – the narrowest church in Split

One of my favorite surprises was finding tucked into a sentry’s walkway above the Golden Gate to Diocletian’s palace, one of the oldest churches in Split dedicated to Saint Martin, the patron saint of soldiers. St. Martin is considered “one of the best preserved sacral monuments of the ancient world” with a beautifully carved pre-Romanesque altar partition that has not been moved from its original place since the 11th century. It is really a very special place.

The narrowest church in the city, some say it may even be the narrowest in the world at 1.64m wide and 10m long. Luckily we saw the sign on the wall that led up to a narrow staircase. It is not an easy find. But I’m really glad we paid attention to the placards on the walls!

Boat Tour

Having only a few days in Split we wanted to make sure to get on the beautiful water around Split so a boat trip seemed like the best way to go. We opted for a speedboat that took us out to the Blue Lagoon, Solta (quick stop for lunch) and then out to Trogir a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Blue Lagoon

Our first stop on our boat tour was to the Blue Lagoon. Our timing wasn’t the best to enjoy this beautiful area. Had the sun been out in its full glory we would have seen a different color blue we were told. Nonetheless it was a beautiful spot. And although the water was a bit chilly it was clear and you could see all the way down to the ocean floor. The shore is rocky so there is no beach. And we must have come at a time when the facilities were closed. Bummer. But there were plenty of trees for shade. No facilities and no amenities here. Just amazing water.

Tips :: 1. Be sure to wear water shoes because there are lots of rocks in the water. 2. The ocean is your bathroom. 3. Bring your own snacks and drinks if you plan to spend some time here.

Solta

I would have loved to stay a little longer and actually roam around this picturesque coastal town on the shores of Solta but we only stopped for a short lunch and we were on our way. Lunch, by the way, was yummy and we really enjoyed it!

Trogir

This amazing ancient town is connected to the mainland of Croatia by a bridge. We of course took a speedboat on our tour but I was over the moon to be given such a surprise and gift. From afar I could already tell that Trogir was going to be an experience I would not forget :: you could see the charm of this ancient city from miles away!

I have written a separate post on Trogir which you can read by clicking here.

Old Town Split

My heart was full walking around Split’s Old Town with the splendid culture and heritage beaming from every angle. Many times during our walks through town I was overwhelmed not knowing in which direction to look first. Old Town is truly a feast for the eyes and where antiquity and urban life fully intersect.

Split Riva

The Riva (waterfront) promenade is the most popular place in Split and a pedestrian’s heaven. When you take the time to wander around the Riva you will see why it is so popular. With all the cafes and restaurants here it is lively during the day as well as all night.

And the views are truly spectacular. They say the best time to be here at the Riva is during the celebration dedicated to the patron saint of Split :: St. Domnius. Splicani are very proud of their city indeed and they have a lot to be proud of.

Republic Square

Trg Republik (Republic Square) is a large open square located just west of Riva, past Marmontova. It is surrounded on three sides by an elaborate red neo-Renaissance structure known as Prokurative. Locals therefore call the square Prokurative and rarely by its real name. The southern side of the square is open, providing a breathtaking view of the harbor front.

Green Market (Pazar)

I love wandering through the markets everywhere I travel and so we had to see what they call the Green Market (locally known as Pazar) in Split where market day is every day because a visit to the market is a daily ritual for locals. It’s fun to see the local people in their element, it is definitely worth a visit.

Cathedral of St. Domnius

This Cathedral is located in the oldest building in Split :: the Mausoleum of the Roman Emperor Diocletian who was a persecutor of Christians. In the 7th century altars and relics of executed martyrs St. Domnius and St. Anastasius took an honorary place here.

The Cathedral’s Christian worship services have continued non-stop for a millennium and on Split’s patron saint’s St. Domnius’s Day they hold a traditional procession and Sunday mass.

The main altar took from 1685 until 1689 to be built. The wooden bench rests which originally stood in front of the main altar were carved in the first half of the 13th century and are the most important work in the Baroque choir.

Bell Tower

The most original Dalmatian medieval architecture which started in the 13th century is the Bell Tower of the Cathedral of St. Domnius. Reconstruction took place at the turn of the 20th century and today you can climb the steps all the way to the top of the tower to see a spectacular view of the entire city of Split. Isn’t this a gorgeous view?

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My final thoughts about Split are this :: I am so glad that we took the time to visit this amazing city and took our boat tour to Trogir. It wasn’t originally on my radar but when push came to shove it did not disappoint whatsoever. One thing I would have loved to do is spend more time and perhaps even stay overnight in Trogir.

I highly recommend a visit to the islands of Croatia. Give yourself a minimum of three days (for the true history buffs I recommend five) and take the time to enjoy everything this beautiful area on the Adriatic has to offer!